Get to the airport at 7:00 AM. No need to show up two hours early anymore, but I hate being late for anything. I go to the BP/Conoco-Philips terminal. Men in heavy duty parkas, all the same parkas, sit silently. No one at the ticket counter, I sit too. I wait for half an hour until someone realizes that it's Sunday and Alaska is chartered and handles ticketing on Sundays. We all grab our shit and bust out the quick-walk through the airport. The terminal is pretty empty, I get to the front of the line quick. Bags have somehow lost weight since PDX, now if only I could as well. Bags are checked, boarding pass received, let's do this. But not before I have a smoke, or three.
Stand outside, not in the smoking area, and somehow zero degree weather doesn't really bother me right then. I pace back and forth.
The men around me are
hardened. Their skin is injured, their
eyes are frosty, their steps heavy, and their breathing slow. They don’t laugh often, they chuckle and
smirk, but there isn’t much happiness to them.
Then again, it’s almost very early in the morning. In a flight of approximately 100, I see three
women. One is approximately my age, the
other two were my age maybe 30 years ago.
It’s time to board the plane, I line up and choose a song, “Clam, Crab,
Cockle, Cowrie”. It’s slow, whimsical,
desperate, it’s my current favorite. I
get on the plane, look out onto the snowy runway, and have Joanna Newsom put me
to sleep. I wake up an hour later.
Dark. Completely dark. I look out the window and there’s nothing to
see, absolutely nothing. A few minutes
pass by and I see some lights in the distance.
Then I see a few more. Then
there’s plenty more. But they’re all
spread out, miles in between clusters.
If I didn’t know better I’d think it was Pennsylvania or something. I spot the landing strip, next stop Deadhorse
Airport, the name is appropriate. The
plane begins its descent and my heart is racing. I feel it pounding, throwing uppercuts at my
chest plate, I haven’t felt this anxious since . . . my first school dance, and
here I am without a date. The pilot is
amazing, we slip onto the runway and cruise to a stop. I look out the window and I’m not seeing a
tunnel connecting to the plane. I see
stairs being wheeled out. The stewardess
tells us that the temperature is “50 below, winds at 6 miles per hour, meaning
a windchill of 62 below.” Fuck. They announce that our bags will be at our
designated camps and that tonight’s dinner is prime rib. Fuck yes.
I grab my backpack, walk down the isle, I already feel the cold. I step outside the door and holy shit.
My nose hairs, my mucus,
it freezes instantly. My eyes go dry and
my face goes numb. This is exactly what
I imagined hell freezing over to be like.
I hotfoot it to the shuttle bus, I don’t hotfoot. I get inside the shuttle and I still my
breath is visible. A guy with a
handlebar mustache notices my novice. “First
time?” I nod my head like a fob who doesn’t know English. “Take your hat off, get your body used to the
cold.” I shake my head, “I don’t have
any hair.” He laughs. Alaskans love laughing at an L.A boy’s
misfortune. We begin moving.
There is no life to look
at as we drive. It’s all white, it’s all
dark. There’s a small “hotel” where
apparently, they have “titty booths”.
The little things. You pass
buildings that look like shitty warehouses.
These are camps for Conoco, Haliburton, and numerous other evil
corporations that we’ve all been taught to hate. They are few and far between, every now and
then you see natural gas flares blast into the sky. Apparently once or twice a month they flare
so large that they light up the whole sky.
Everybody on the bus talks about how they need to build a natural gas pipeline
already to increase state revenue.
Forget that they have 27 billion permanently in their oil dividend
fund. But that’s for another post.
We get to my camp, BPOC
(British Petroleum Operations Camp), and it too looks like a shitty warehouse
from the outside. I get off the bus, my
face freezes again, and I hotfoot it for the doors. But inside is a whole different story. It looks like a dorm building. The lobby looks comfortable, there are LCD
TVs everywhere. People are on their
laptops, chatting with strangers, you can smell delicious food. Not bad.
I meet El, a fellow contractor.
He gives me a quick rundown of the facility, not a tour, and we grab
some lunch. Balsamic Chicken, Spaghetti
and Meatballs, and a whole skew of other shit.
El points to a room behind the cafeteria, it’s full of snacks, cold
sandwiches, hot dogs, hamburgers, everything for the professional snacker. The best part? It’s always open.
Lunch is done and El
shows me to my room. It’s just like a
college dorm. Extended twin size, shared
bathroom with the room next door, and a TV . . . that gets HBO AND HBO2. Not bad BP.
I lay down for a bit, flip the channels, it’s all very comfortable. I go downstairs to the baggage room to see if
the bags from our flight have arrived.
They have but . . . mine aren’t there.
I ask security WTF, and they ask if I put a red BPOC tag on my bag. I didn’t know where I was supposed to put
that tag, they said back in Anchorage. I
wasn’t told. They tell me they’ll try to
find them. I decide to give myself a
tour.
There’s a theater for
movies on Friday & Saturday nights, also for mass on Sundays. A full sized basketball court, an impressive
gym, a large sauna, and . . . a pool? If
man can dream it. There’s a few other
lounges, all with large TVs, all with their own fountain drink dispensers, not
bad. I watch the Cowboys, thank God, and
I’m told to just relax today, tomorrow will be long. I go back downstairs to check with security
about my bags, no word and since it’s Sunday everyone’s gone from the
airport. Dinner comes, I have my prime
rib, talk to some of the guys I’m going to be working with. I don’t remember their names, say goodnight
and go hang in my room. Dirty, cold and
beatdown, I strip down to my skivvies and go to sleep. I miss my sleeping gear. But I couldn’t be more excited to be
here. I look outside and see the Aurora
Borealis, who from the lower 48 gets to see that? I am thrilled. This is Alaska.
-Chuck
p.s "...and just like the river, I been running... ever since."
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