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Name: loco
Interests: "I keep picturing all these little kids playing some game in this big field of rye and all. Thousands of little kids, and nobody's around--nobody big, I mean--except me. And I'm standing on the edge of some crazy cliff. What I have to do, I have to catch everybody if they start to go over the cliff--I mean if they're running and they don't look where they're going. I have to come out from somewhere and catch them. That's all I'd do all day. I'd just be the catcher in the rye and all. I know it's crazy, but that's the only thing I'd really like to be."
Expertise: Employing bee sting to deplete.
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10/26/2004
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| In the Colosseum, we call em as we see 'em“It's all the much more sporting when there's families in the pit, and the madness of the crowd is in an epileptic fit”- waits lyrics comparing the Colosseum to the political quagmire in Washington.
The Colosseum was, no doubt, my favorite site from Ancient Rome. It continues to be a worldwide image of bloodlust and Barbary within an ostensibly civilized people. Not to beat the uber-overused Rome/ USA parallel, but we might say the same today of, say, mixed martial arts...or boxing...even football... Having Christians fight lions might be one step or two more barbaric, but its not more than a couple more. Still, our sports are entertaining, and put me into this sport-induced arousal as well.
It might seem that I've been giving Berlin unreasonably large attention compared to Rome, where I was last week (and where I'll stop through again in a couple days). However, I think this makes sense, given the relatively more time I've spent here in Berlin, coupled with my greater knowledge of German (and Eastern Bloc) history and my prior visit to Germany which allow me to look beyond more surface tourist observations a bit more than my first time Rome trip. It's very hard to analyze when you're taken aback by a new system, language, and culture. Plus, I genuinely believe Berlin is very important and underrepresented in the popular psyche. Additionally I'm solo here in Germany, always a better recipe for reflection.
But still, it didn't take much to realize Rome is also an incredible city. In fact Rome (specifically the Vatican) is one of my “life 5”, of which Israel, The trans-Siberian Railway, and Rome are now touched upon. Japan and Pamplona remain.
The tourist overload only really applied to the Vatican (which I covered 2 posts ago), which was undiminished even so; and easy enough to avoid the worst by going early. A bigger problem, as previously mentioned, was the weather, made worse by no shorts (must be below the knee to go into religious sites.)
Italy is reputed as a very lazy and relaxed place- I see this more reflected in dysfunction as I posted 2x ago. But I thought the historical issues outweighed it and makes Italy a great destination nonwithstanding. One of my classmates (she is Italian) really criticized Italy, saying they are so endowed with historical wealth is the reason it is a tourist destination, not due to its good preservation or infrastructure or service. Though I think the painting seems to get a good deal of attention, probably due to Jana;s influence my classmate said she thought other western countries would take more care in preservation of such masterpieces.
Italy could be more pleasant destination- but its possible that the reason for some unpleasantness is the bourgeois other tourists.(Ameliorator and I heard the British-accented quote “Who hasn't been to Tuscany?” here.
I've also heart the critique that Italy (like Greece) rests on its historical laurels, not concerned about achievement because they are confident about their history but they sit and refuse to progress. Regardless, they have an incredible history, so I'll stop know critiquing a local mindset that I wasn't able to understand in my short stint there. And the tourists do come, the money is made, and the standard of living is high, despite huge inefficiencies. Despite my hassles, Italy is mostly western in its travel ease scale.
The Pantheon (again 2 posts ago) and the Roman Forum (were parliamentary democracy was implemented-in some sense) were other excellent historic sites- the Pantheon two orders of magnitude more well preserved, being converted to a church and used as such. The Colosseum is crumbling but still an incredible site, which has been sanctified for so many (Christian) deaths. Didn't see any aqueducts or the Circus maximus, but I don't know anything about ancient Rome anyway, so into our third ruins I began to not really know or care about differences.
The Gelatto (homemade Italian ice cream) was a favorite of the girls; I preferred our pasta and pizza meals. I had more time and money in Italy, Food is probably where I would first spend it. The waiters did not like my style (nor I theirs) but it was good enough. I don't think its particularly welcoming, which does make a difference, but I also took so little effort to adapt to Italian culture that to really have a genuine culture experience I would need to try to integrate more than a week of power travel. Italian culture doesn't fit in well with this approach.
Two excursions were lot of fun for us. The Palio in Siena (Florence's ancient rival town, whose power was wiped out by the black death) was an event packed 2 minutes. Each of the surrounding towns races a horse around the Siena town square in an a bareback-all holds barred chaos. Several horses always finish without riders (2 in our case). Medieval dressed pageantry of horses and minstrels as well as thousands of flag waving fans make an action packed environment.
This was the same day as the pope, so getting in was a bit of a solace. Tickets overlooking the square generally cost around 200 Euro (300 bucks!) But there is one opportunity for free entrance, which we stumbled upon, and got to stand in the center of the square amidst the rabble cheering. We even snuck our backpacks (forbidden) past the Po-Po! The left luggage place at the station ( in Italy not done by lockers, but, as in Russia and the South, by actual people) closes in the early evening so we wouldn't be able to pick it up. So we had to take bags with.
It is common opinion that the event, which is 700 years old at last, is very corrupt and the winner is bought beforehand. Whether this is true I do not know, but the number of fans from the winning town outnumbered the rest and paraded, singing and beating drums into the church across town to celebrate! Losing fans were disappointed, and everyone had high energy. The event is held in honor of the Virgin Mary, and so has some religious (albeit seemingly only outwardly) components. 3 days of parties were supposed to ensue, but we bailed to Florence to meet Jana and tour the Ufizzi and Academia.
Another excursion was to Cinque Terre, or 5 towns, on the Mediterranean coast, built into cliffs in improbable locations. Several hikes go throughout, including one running through each one. We did the trail through 'Cuarto tierre's, which was roughly 10 kilometers- stopping in each of 4 towns along the way. There were plenty of people swimming in the Med as well as soaking up the small town vibe, more violated in some towns than others by the hordes of visitors arriving on frequent trains. But getting out on the trail allowed us to get a nature feeling and feel the cool sea breeze despite the scorching Italian sun.
One more note about Berlin- it is well famous for being the only progressive city in Europe- where you can have facial piercings and hold a corporate job simultaneously. While not as wild as the fringier areas of London, fashion in some neighborhood s more uniformly alternative with oodles of bizarre head shave patterns dreadlocks hair colors tattoos and piercings. Its very common to see a dreadlocked woman pushing a baby carriage with a mohawked father. Alternative fashion need not mean alternative lifestyle. East Berlin has the alternative rep in particular, and indeed there is Ramones museum (which I could not find, even with lonely planets directions, surprising?) and cheap eats all through a neighborhood known as Kreuzberg. Very vibrant, and making me look relatively clean and well-kempt!
The social scene in Berlin is largely clubbing; I went to 2 clubs, a youngish club under a train station that emphasized American music – pop rock hip hop etc, and was very similar to an American club. With much more smoking outside...The second I went to was a trendy place on a 10th floor glass walled discotheque with electronic music- a place more in line with to be more my previous conception of the city. Still, American influence is omnipresent, with remixes of Enter Sandman and Smells Like Teen Spirit (albeit very remixed) into dance tunes, even at this uber-German atmosphere. The club environments were less social than American ones (little interaction between groups- you hang out with who you come with). But in general, its very much the same.
The conference is coming to a close tomorrow and so I'll fly back to Rome to grab one more good meal...then back to the U.S.S.A, done with Eastern Europe, for the time being.
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| ...then we take BerlinBerlin is a truly complex city in a very important country. Nonwithstanding, I will give some slipshod analysis of some of the world's most historical events, and will cram 3, yes 3, of them into one post. I expect to take some flack for not giving these issues enough attention. Believe me, do I give them attention (here and always), but I just type slow, and have very little time with the Summer school here, as well as actually trying to experience the city. The very little of my free time remaining is left as analysis, meaning to type this I have to dig into my sleeping and eating times! So here we go...
Rome, London, Paris, it seems to me these cities are more well known historically because Berlin has only been a city very recently, when in the 1800's it was formed from an amalgomation of a dozen or so villages. Now its broad streets and leafy parks make it comfortable and relaxed, while its intense history as the center of the German empire republic and reich makes it probably the pivotal city of the 20th Century.
My most recent stop, though my #1 reason for looking forward to berlin, was Cold war history. It's embodied at Checkpoint Charlie, which was the only crossing point between west and east berlin for diplomats, etc...no crossing for East berliners at all..
Thousands of East Berliners snuck across, and hundreds were killed. Their methods are all documented- hiding in luggage, hot air balloons, tunnels, a homemade submarine, etc. All sorts of protests, subversive plans, and defiant acts are documented here at the Checkpoint charlie museum, which is actually called the Wall Museum. It is an incredibly emotional museum, with individual stories of people working around the world to eliminate the Wall, and all walls, physical and otherwise. Jerusalem was referenced as a parallel to Berlin by a german author in the early 80's. No reference to Nicosia that I caught. The wall museum was made as the events unfolded, so its a true historical (west german) perspective...
Here also, were stories about freedom in other parts of the world- the Ukrainian Genocide(including a film about it), uprisings in other parts of the Eastern Bloc and so on. Perhaps because I'm so thoroughly anti-soviet, but I really did not think the pro-western sentiment was over the top. For me, its hard to find sympathy for a system that fences in its people, then shoots its own citizens when they try to leave. But another observer might think this viewpoint is not sympathetic enough to the socialist cause. Pro Regan and Gorbechov messages, as well strong anti Stalinist sentiments (to the point of translating his office as Dictator) ,and anti- Checka (Dzerzhinsky) and Stasi (the East German KGB, which was seemingly more brutal than the other Soviet Bloc states, save the USSR itself) attitudes certainly did not paint the losers' side with any sympathy, but the fact is the museum was created in real time in West Berlin during the construction of the wall, and continued growing and expanding until the wall fell adds the explanation of the bias in presentation. Even so, this message was the same (if not even milder) as the sentiments expressed in the newer, flashier DDR museum on (former) east german soil.
Onto another important historical point, the Germans are, of course, guilty of perpetrating one of the most terrible crimes against humanity ever, and probably the world's most calculated and evil genocide. And they are very sorry for it. It is illegal to say anything anti-semitic; Jews are now very much embraced in every way possible. There's a new synagogue and lots of positive public policy.
There are Jerusalemer Street, Yitzak Rabin street, even Ben Gurion Street here in Berlin (in Dresden, in East Germany proper, there were all kinds of Warsaw pact capital named streets, which remain to this day; overt socialist names have however been changed...still its funny to walk down Prager street or Budapester street).
The street example was just one specific example how Germans seem genuinely sorry and to really appreciate Jews. They try- probably overly- hard to get over their prejudices and collective feelings of guilt. To this end, there is an incredible holocaust memorial, in addition to the Jewish museum, occupying an entire city block, on prime real estate only a block from Parliament. Experiencing this monument, which is an angular set of huge rectangular stones, some 15 feet high, conjures a huge graveyard. Spooky and thought -provoking, walking between these immense columns late at night really was chilling.
The Jewish Museum was a similarly intense place. Supposedly the best of its kind in the world, and indeed it is superbly professionally done. The dramatic modern architecture is angular and harsh, evoking unease throughout. However, while Germans do feel guilty, I think that having the museum evoke imagery of a prison while wire-studded cross-shaped windows looked out was a bit unnecessary, especially given Hitlers neo-pagan ideology; the Third Reich was far from a christian regime. Aside from this one notable detail, the tone the museum set was also excessive- while the holocaust was no doubt a pivotal event in German, Jewish, and World history, the museum of Jewish history need not emphasis this event throughout. Jews are not confined to angular cells behind barbed wire for their entire history, as the museum more or less implies. There are arts of the museum where this emptiness is appropriate- the holocaust tower which is an angular cold empty room, was well done. But I felt that emphasizing discrimination and hate against Jews undermined the very real contributions that Jews have made, to Germany and beyond. While there was an emphasis on German, and to a larger extent Ashkanazi jews (a term which which did NOT include poland, lithuania, russia and eastern europe, according to the museum including france italy and germany only- I'm not entirely sure about that one)
Its Garden of exile, symbolizing he Jews scattering across the world (referencing specifically post WWII exile from europe) was terrifically done, with cobbled paths on slightly uneven incline through off-angled columns that made the walk through the garden entirely disorienting, stumbling and tripping as the loss of perspective. It was really a feeling one might induce from alcohol; though I did not appreciate the misleading exhibit description that the columns were vertical (from afar they clearly are not); trying to orient them as vertical creates the disorienting effect. Misleading, yes but these elements and the effect were very perfect.
But while it is impossible to catalogue the history of the Jewish people, I was expecting more ancient Jewish History, including Judiasm's contributions to religions and philisophic thought. Instead, it was more german centric, which has its ups in empasizing local famous jews but also its limitations in that in trying to be the worlds authority, its not very educational about the history and roots of judaism. Perhaps more Jewish traditions (they were but briefly mentioned, and I didnt catch any of the holidays mentioned) and religion and interpretations.
Instead the museum began speaking about Constantine and how his reforms to help Jews really ended up working against them. Perhaps true, but the condemning language really set the tone, and led into what would be essentially a chronicle of mistreatment of Jews. I am actually sympathetic to this point, I just dont think it's the only point to be made.
Then the museum immediately moved on to how Jews were expelled from various towns during the crusades, banned from public offices, blamed for the death of Christ, the plague, the loss of Germany in WWI, etc. While all of these things are true, to one extent or another, the sheer volume of self-victimization was tantamount to crying wolf. The museum constantly listed excerpts of anti-Jewish statements made by various people for the last 2000 years. It is not surprising what we can find a set of museum walls' worth of these, but is it really a constructive or representative activity? Esecially when many of the quotes were not from political leaders or church leaders, but usually random excerpts from opinion columns, etc.
The museum also contained a section on prejudices, against jews and others.
However most all of the advertisements were a hundred years old, and very similar to the Smithsonian's exhibit (though admittedly much more technologically advanced, as is all of Germany). While germany is very cutting edge in general, this was one area where they definitely were NOT challenging any status quo. Not many modern ads were shown or challenged.
I also did not appreciate the "are you prejudiced" inteactive game, which was similar to a psych lab experiment, but done in such a way that its very hard to NOT get the result prejudiced, even if you had no prior prejudice at all. I think the point here again is propoganda, saying everyone should reduce prejudce- which I might agree, however the manner in which this is relayed is misleading and it feels dishonest. The latest psychological studies I know about this area (which are similar to the test the museum conducted) actually state that virtually everyone (including dark-skinned people) are biased toward lighter skin, though of course they used valid methods...I mean that people, all of them are biased against darker skinner people.
I also didnt like the interactive questions (like internet polls) throughout. Questions like "Do you think any of your friends harbor prejudices against Jews" and "Should Turkey be allowed to Join the EU" and "Should anyone born on German soil be a german citizen" (apparently they're not?)
Despite the terrible tings happening to Jews, which certainly in some ways parallels terrors of the Soviet Curtain, I did not feel the same type of emotional response as I did in the Berlin Wall museum (at Checkpoint charlie). I'm not sure that Soviet dictatorship and the Holocaust are directly comparable; both are too horrible for mere description, but the presentation in the Jewish museum seemed a bit too singular in emphasis for me.
For reference as to how Germany portrays Jews in General and the Holocaust in specific, I wish I had been able to go to Dachau (outside Munich) but it was closed the day I tried to visit it 2 years ago. Aushiwitz, in Poland, was in my opinion superbly presented (mostly in that there was no presentation- things were left as is, with minimum displays or words). The nauseating nature of he place spoke for itself.
I did not find a similar level of emotional arousal here at the Jewish museum, and in fact I felt it was endless playing the victim whereas Jewish life and contributions are much more than 1-dimentional. I of course acknowledge the victimization of Jews throughout the ages; I don't particularly think that constantly bringing tis up, or in blaming Christianity, is useful to do in such a wide swath.
A similar example is the excellent holocaust museum in DC. I think, with the exception of the disjoint and unsettling celebration of the proclamation of israel at the end, the DC holocaust museum evokes emotion and presents information in a way that educates and motivates, not in a way that makes the Jewish people an innocent roadkill on the pathway of history. However, as I mentioned, Germans are extremely sorry for their role in the holocaust and seem to overcompensate. This sentiment, I believe, is counter-constructive, and leads to the European wide anti-Israel stance that has been gradually adopted, as well as the arrogant, isolationist, and self pitying role that Israel has taken on in its global role. There is clearly a lot of history and pain and rejection to be worked out, but sometimes moving forward is as positive a step as remembering every wrong of history. Also see post slavery Black issues for this; not an easy issue. I advocate that one must constantly be aware of how much you are visctimized but never make it your calling card- for your own sake. Being a victim is timid; rising above is. For another simplistic analysis of this issue, see Barack Obama's race talk back in march.
I did see the Memorial to the Israeli athletes at the olympic park in Munich the last time I was there; this was creative, austere, appropriate and on the right scale. The jewish museum certainly had brilliant elements, but its fundamental refrain, even if true each time it was mentioned, did not help me to connect with the Jewish struggle as much as such a museum had the opportunity to.
OK< so that issue is so important I dont want to stop thinking or rambling about it but I promised to mention third issue, that of Germany being the center of Europe, which it pretty much has been for all of the last 2 centuries. Rome was challenged only by Germanic tribes, who wroke (yes wroke) havoc upon all of Europe and expanded germanic-dom and prussianess to the very border of the Lithuanian-polish state. The Tribes eventually became the kingdom of Prussia, who were not as bad as Russia, but were probably Lithuania's #2 enemy of the State historically. Actually, for most of history, Lithuania dominated Russia, and only came to constant stalemates with Prussia, so Prussia was the worthy opponent; only in the last 200 years did Russia do anything to get back at Lithuania. But now Prussia is dead so we won't give them Public enemy #1 status.
Anyway, there's various sayings: that Bavaria is not Germany (its catholic, inefficient, lot of accent, very different culture, didnt join Germany until late etc), saying that East Germany isnt like Germany(brainwashed/ changed culture form the iron curtain), that Berlin is not (too multicultural- sometimes called little istanbul for the umber of turks here) etc. But let us say this: Brandenburg was the seat of the Prussian King. Pretty much always a bad bad man in this humble opinion. Though a very important and powerful one. Brandenburg gate, whose statue was stolen by naopolean then stolen back by prussia, represents german history in downtown berlin because it represents historical power and european dominance. Germany is power- economic, population, industrial, political, power.
I do not embrace the german mindset in most ways (except power travel efficiency), but I have to respect it. They dominate, they are proud, and they are resiliant across all times. Ok, I hope thats enough blather. On with the city count next time- I'll jot a bit more about Italy and the Berlin party scene.
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| Italia und DeutschlandSo my first year of PHD economics is over and I'm back to some real fun.
The past two weeks I've been in Europe, though two very different parts of Europe: Italy and Germany. The states Lazio and Tuscany (Rome and Florence) in Italy, then East Germany (Dresden and Berlin).Its possible I could have picked a more extreme dichotomy, say, Sicily and Frankfurt, but this one worked well enough for a few insights.
The reasons for my travel varied just as widely.
In Italy ameliorator and I set of on a whirlwind 5 day “tourist Italy” trip, albeit with the excellent caveat that we'd be visiting and traveling with Jana, who lives in Florence doing an art restoration internship.
As for Germany I am here for a 10-day summer school in economics and decision making.
I'll list some obvious differences and begin with an indicator: Street crossing: In Italy, it's all chaos, all the time- pedestrians crossing anywhere and cars speeding around. Still though it actually didn't seem dangerous, not like, say Istanbul, where cars speed up when they see a pedestrian crossing. Cars were respectful, laid back.
Germany was as I remembered it when I first traveled there in 06, and was shocked that people actually listen to the “walk/ don't walk” signals. People will wait patiently on the corner, even at 1 a.m. with no cars to be seen, for the cross sign to appear. This strict adherence is less in the very progressive Berlin (It was more notable in Dresden and my former trip in Bavaria) but nonetheless is remarkable.
Religion is another point of difference. East Germany, was the home of Martin Luther, who preached not far from Dresden. Italy of course is the seat of Catholicism, at Vatican City, where I went 3 of my 5 days in Italy- every one of the Days I was in Rome.
We also saw a portion of the Vatican Museums' 7 miles of chambers; I declare this to be the greatest museum in the world. I've never been into the Hermitage or the Louvre, but having experienced the Smithsonian, British museum, Ufizzi, Pergamon, Met, MOMA, Field Museum, and more. The Vatican museum has them all beat in sheer scale, including the Sistine Chapel which was a highlight of my trip and I know next to nothing about Renaissance art. Plus tons of other artwork, including modern art, historical maps, and so on. On top of that, the Vatican has Michelangelo's Pieta sitting in a dusty (though not forgotten) corner of St Peter's.
We went to Sunday mass in St Peters, which is huge but not overly ornate given what it could be. Rather the overall color scheme is a subdued set of earth tones that I though very beautiful. The bizarre thing about this mass is that it seemed less formal than some others, including the collection going on through the Eucharist. Despite having the perfectly designed kneelers,mass in St Peters was not an overly sublime experience. Still the church itself was nice offering Mass constantly (and simultaneously) in several of it chapels, and offering confession on the weekdays. It was very much a functioning church, not a museum as several other Churches we went to in Italy
The Pantheon was actually quite shocking- people eating ice cream in the church, yammering and photoflashing, running around, with total chaos of the money changers at the entry. Despite this, the pantheon is an amazing building, A perfect half dome upon a cylinder and a huge gaping circle in the ceiling allowing a huge thick light beam to illuminate the ancient building. The building is in perfect shape 2000 years after it was build, originally as a temple to all the Gods. Physically perfect, environmentally poor...
The Pantheon is just one of Rome's many Basilicas and we saw at least 4- a couple being virtually completely untouristed despite being downtown, huge and gorgeous. A Basilica in Rome is about as rare as a casino in Vegas: you don't need to go in every single one to get the idea. (A Basilica is a magnificent church without the seat of a bishop- Washington has one: the Basilica of the Shrine of the Immaculate Conception; whereas Washington's Cathedral is the Smaller (though still quite large) St Matthew's downtown)
The art differential between Italy and Germany is also large and this was something more than I unanticipated. I don't think I had much exposure to German art the week I was in Bavaria- it was some architecture, a few nice churches and castles, and mountains. But here in Berlin in particular, art is everywhere. And while yes, there is the stereotypical industrial geometric German art, I am really surprised at first the diversity of art here, and even more so, at the art appreciation that the average Berliner has. The modern and progressive art here even found its way into the Museum of southwest again antiquity, aside (in the same museum as) an exhibit on Islamic art and Turkey's great Altar from Pergamon. In the same room, in an almost seamless exhibit, we saw multimedia television screens sounds, bells, and artworks. This particular exhibit, expounding upon Nebuchanezzar of Babylon, was quite thorough, mixing ancient texts, paintings, as well as modern pieces paralleling Nebachunezzar to Saddam Hussein.
And yes, pornography (both museums I have been to included extensive nudity which would most definitely be pornography in America- yet these museums are completely mainstream museums, one even a hands-on museum geared at accessibility, hence kids! The german attitudes toward "progressive" ideas like pornography or feminism or homosexuality is almost elitist. I found it bizarre that there were political statements and pieces overtly advocating messages in a history museum. While such pieces might be in a modern art museum in the US, the Smithsonian's American history museum woudl not mix overt politcs in the same way.
On a previous topic, I find that german society is actually not nearly s overtly sexual as Italian public portrayal is in ads, etc. While very comfortable with ideas of sexuality and public nudity, the German public seems much more sexually conservative in behavior.
On other Michelangelo notes, Jana obtained Ameliorator and I special tickets for Florence's Academia, which is essentially a museum with David and a half dozen unfinished Michaelangelo sculptures as its focus. The David is a truly compelling sculpture, and despite it being probably the most famous sculpture in the world, I was still overwhelmed and the seer size, realism and beauty.My favorite element is his confident stance from afar while up close the fear is so clearly in his eyes. Though there are plenty of criticisms, such as too real, or that his hands are grossly too large, or, as the usually sophomoric lonely planet was titilated about, the size of his member, I think the statue is amazing and perfect, and gazing at it for an hour was a highlight of the trip.
I learned about all of these artworks in Gecan/ Gullickson humanities in 10th grade and was surprised how much I was able to recall when seeing all of these great buildings and artworks. The Ufizzi, Florence's primary art museum, was also chocked full of masterpieces by Caravaggio, Leonardo, Rafael, and others. Though I don't know renaissance paining so well, there were was several I recognized, such as the Birth of Venus, and even more I could actually appreciate. It's a very good museum that makes non-modern art paintings entrancing to me.
On to societal function. The way society runs might be an extension of the crosswalk light example above, but the stereotypes definitely hold true here. Italy's trains are late constantly, things are quite confusing, no receipts (this became a problem when I lost a train ticket- whereas in Germany we always get a receipt) very confusing train schedules etc. Germany again lived up to its reputation of information, efficiency and modernization.
Italy was a frustrating friction point of societal function: just functional enough to make you try to follow the rules, with prices to reflect it, but dysfunctional enough that efficiency was constantly violated and nothing was consistent. Still, the dysfuntionality was not high enough to take advantage of- so it was developed enough to make traveling western style necessary, but not functional enough to make power travel work!
On such example is my first experience here. After my scheduled landing, I had 100 minutes to make it from the Airport to the Vatican for an Audience with the pope. Which, using power travel techniques and navigating the essentially functional transportation system, proved more than possible, albeit difficult, as it would be in any country on such a tight schedule. Ameliorator has already obtained the tickets, so all was perfect until when we were 20 people from the front, the Vatican Guard clowns (swiss guard dressed in even more ridiculous outfits than Buckingham palace) stopped letting people into the hall! There were too many tickets given; half the crowd was turned away! We were tantalizingly close. But when certain groups made exceptions and were still allowed to enter, we tried several time to plead and work our way in, efforts that would work in a normal developing country (whereas our would work in a normal developed country). But Italy is right on the cusp, and not clearly well entrenched as developed- in fact its developing but with western price rates!
Well the result was many of the people with tickets being turned away. Then, next, me tallying a second country on my lifelong list of places I have been kicked out of. That is right folks, I was kicked out of the Vatican (not by a Vatican clown Guard, but rather a Rome/Italian POLICEman was was in a decidedly bad mood and probably didn't like the looks of me, like most POPO don't. It was not obvious if he kicked out just me or Liora also, but he refused to let us go back into St Peters Square and instead walked us, gestapo style, to the exit. IE, the border. And he closed the gate behind us. So of course the Vatican has an open border in st peters square (the Vatican walls that surround most of the rest of the country) and its quite easy to walk in (they don't even check you when the metal detectors go off) so we were able to walk back in but the bizarre dysfunction of the situation was a good reflection on the Italian non-system. We had tickets yet were kicked out of the Country. And were able to walk right back in, through metal detectors that went off, but I was not checked after, not once in the 3 or 4 times I set them off here! Infrastructure yes, purpose, no!
Another example Ameliorator raised was that at the internet cafe, we were required to register (by Italian law) using an official ID. But Liora could use an expired ID, and mine didn't have a birthdate- but they allowed me to just tell it to them...and then no problems, I could use the internet. I guess they didn't find me as an enemy of the state. Much like the developing world, dysfunctional pointless, ineffective hurdles- not unlike recent airline regulations, which have now (liquid carry-on limit) spread here to germany as well!
Political background is also shocking one might think that as I spent my time in the Northern (more functional, ostensibly) part of Italy, and former Eastern Bloc (the backward part of) Germany. Actually this trip to the former German Democratic Republic (East Germany) means 2008 is the 8th Straight year I've been in the Eastern Bloc. Every year of the new Millennium and counting!
I haven't seen the wall or Brandenburg gate, but I did visit the DDR (Deutschland Democratic Republic, not Dance Dance Revolution) museum, which has the standard super-critical slant toward the Soviet bloc history, complete with condemnations of Women's day and East German autos and an exhibit of photos and videos of people yearning to express their freedom and individuality by nude sunbathing. Not unlike the Museum of Communism on Prague, this museum adequately captures the region's anti-Soviet sentiments.
Now that I've been to (the former) East Germany, I'm missing only Hungary to complete my Warsaw pact travel list (The Warsaw pact is the Soviet Union's correlary to NATO, though the soviets violently put down protests in Czechoslovakia and Hungary, thus attacking members of their own alliance). I also have never been to Slovakia, but in the Bloc days Czechoslovakia was one country so my Czech family trip in 2003 suffices in this nuanced game-a way to exploit the political simplicity of Europe of the Cold War Days. As for the USSR, despite having never been to Moldova and the Caucasus, I can still tally USSR via any of the other 11 former soviet Republics. Likewise, Romania Bulgaria where I went with Eric (and Logan in Romania) and Poland, where I've been several times, round out the Warsaw pact (after Albania pulled out quite early). So while I'd been to Germany, I'd never been on East German soil until this week...
A few other interesting things: I stopped by Dresden (East Germanys second biggest city) for a day, a town that was known as the Florence on the Elbe. But The town was obsessed with how it was before the WWII bombing, and seemed trapped in nostalgia. Must like a good portion of the eastern bloc, looking to better days of yore.
While its really nothing compared to the real Florence (nor was it before, given the perfect reconstructions and looking at the numerous photos), the architecture here was quite impressive, most of it rebuilt already, though construction of the more pedestrian areas of the city are still going on. I climbed the main cathedral's bell tower, as it my normal city exploration technique and meandered the streets across the river to the unbombed residential side outside the center where life is less of a museum. Altogether a pleasant city, though while it was well-touristed, the number of tourists between 18 and 45 here included approximately myself only. In essence, it was close to a museum city, mixed somewhat with modern business trappings overlaying old Soviet Bloc infrastructure. I thought it was interesting that a skate park has sprung up around a Soviet monument with the standard excellent German Graffiti all around. Graffiti is really invented in america, perfected in Germany.
Another note is that I arrived quote late after a flight change and infrequent trains from the airport, leaving me unable to find the hostel- as it was not on the lonely planet map. Thus had a night out under a tree by the tracks. Quite pleasant despite threatening skies. The overcast and rainy weather has continued, with frequently changing skies to allow some sunshine, throughout the week here in East Germany, making it very similar to Baltic State weather! This was a welcome contrast to the constantly sweaty Italian summer weather!
A few more fun things: the Palio horse race in Siena, Italy's biggest festival, Cinque Terre- a coastal hike through some Ligurian (Mediterranean) sea villages and cliffs, the Colliseum and other ancient Roman ruins, as well as the analysis of the social scene and historical sites in Berlin. Plus a few notes on the Economics here- upcoming in a future post! Too much for one installment!
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| California knows how to studySpring break here at the university of California, so finally able to do some non-textbook related exercises: internet and outdoors!
So in a span of 9 days of spring break I've done 5 hikes (and surfed the internet 500 hours!)! All local and nothing particularly big- though at 2000m, some of these San diego county peaks are as high as the highest Appalachians.
As it's the end of spring, the snow will be melting in the really big mountains soon- so will soon be able to head up to the 10,000' + range...with California highest (and the lower 48's biggest) peak Whitney hopefully in the cards- if I can get a summer permit...then out to montana!
Mt Cuyamaca, 6512' (just 50' shy of 2000m). On the apalachian trail, this would be the second highest peak.
Yes I also got a lot skinnier this quarter...which allowed me to particularly appreciate the really chilling wind blowing on this peak, exactly like an alpine peak, really refreshing.
Iron Mountain, 2700.' Nice and sunny.
Flowers on trail at Torrey pines park (so many wildflowers this season!)
This pic is my university, seen across the sea from la jolla cove
Also this quarter I had many visitors!
first doina! ( unfortunately I couldnt get the good photos off facebook)
We went to the zoo (Dan diego has the world's finest) and the beach
Then my family! Here is Liz at my department...
And at the zoo:
Then Ameliorator!
That's theodore geisel (aka dr deuss) at the geisel library on my campus
Can Diego city's highest point, Cowles mountain (1592')
With Ameliorator, Pat, and Melissa
Also, had some other recreation- my first boxing match. It was a world championship bout though because here are different boxing organizations, the defending champ was only ranked 3rd in the world. I have no idea what the challenger was ranked. Probably 8thish.
regardless, it turned out I only had a general admission ticket, so I kept getting kicked out of wherever I sat
This led to my moving farther and farther up so by the time the main event rolled around, I had 2nd row ringside seats! The title fight was the champ (Paul Williams) who was defeated by unanimous decision by Puerto Rican Carlos Quintana. I wore sunglasses because the lights were bright. Apparently my friends watching on HBO thought this looked funny.
Here is my group, followed by a few ringside fight pcs.
This is Lennox Lewis, commentating
Perhaps gratuitous, still I though I should convey the full experience:
Some other cali pics, these strange trees I often post pics of (which must have either inspired or been inspired by Dr Seuss, who lived right down the road) are at La Jolla Cove
The best pic I have of this sunset as my batteries died whan the good stuff was happening...
Seals like to breed in la jolla.
Finally, though I was not there, my neice and nephew had their 6th month birthday!
First photo Helena R , James L, reversed in 2nd
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| The edge of the world for western civilizationI have been living in San Diego for around 4 months now, and have begun hammering at my PHD. In fact, I am now a resident (citizen) of the REPUBLIC OF CALIFORNIA, a state governed by yes, the terminator. In fact, as the post title suggests, I find the vibe exuded in any chili peppers album, particularly Californication, to be eerily like the life I observe around me. Yes it's that good, and that bad.
California is MUCH different than the east coast, in many ways more different than some countries (for example, canada and the US). Here's a picture of my dorms (I live on Campus) at the University of California, San Diego. Note that the leaves are still changing on this tree and it has half its leaves left. - I just took this picture today- in January. Autumn is still here and spring is around the corner. Also note the volleyball net in front of my front door...very nice.
sorry this pic isn't tilted right...
A nice view of the valley below; San diego has quite a nice set of valleys.
The dorm has a nice view of the valley below; San diego has quite a nice set of valleys. Here's sunset @ the localest social beach.
La Jolla Cove- down the hill from my university.
Most notably, everything is car-centered. this was also the case in texas and in other western states. Despite a lot of rhetoric about environmentalism (including the states progressive environmental emissions trading, for example) many californians still seem to nave little knowledge of pollution reduction or recycling.
Also notably is a vague hippie air, which manifests itself in euclyptis trees, copies of Weed World at the newsstand, a generally very relaxed vibe, etc. However, I fail to see many vegetarian food options or environmentally friendly practices; and conversely I see an abundance of consumerism that at least parallels if not exceeds the east coast.
Most notably is the weather. Yes I still wear sandals half the time now in January; some people still wear shorts; I certainly still run in a t-shirt and when the sun comes out, which is basically every day, winter sunburn can be a problem...it happened to me just 3 days ago...
The sea breeze make it indeed paradisiac, its winter and smells like hawaii. The water is cold, but you can see the ocean from my department, and so anytime work gets to be too much a walk outside into fresh air and sunshine is a great retreat.
Being a desert on the edge of the ocean means the mediterranean climate meats a sort of tropical vibe with cool nights...its pretty ideal.
Here are a few pics of my university, and city. This spaceship like thing on my campus is geisel library. theodore Geisel is Dr Seuss. There are seuss statues (including a cat in the hat), reading rooms, etc as seuss and is wife were big donors to the university and lived just down the road...they decided not to give to Dartmouth, his alma mater, as dartmouth told him to stop doing so much cartooning- which is why he took the pen name seuss to disguise himself...and barely graduated to then create green eggs and ham.
Mexico is also just a 20 minute drive away so its easy to stop on in...at least until passports are required to come back, which is supposed to be implemented soon. I have been twice from San Diego, which along with 2 trips from Rice and my trip this summer with Liz to the Caribbean Yucatan and Chiapas, means I've seen a fair amount of Mexico. My spanish is barely passable but gets the job done...
the last chance you have to go back...
pic: sunset from Rosarito, mexico
I also had a chance to visit san francisco and berkeley (as well as LA once more), which have a slightly less vapid atmosphere than SoCal, (SoCal is LA and its trillion suburbs and San diego county), is noted for its plastic surgeries and Right political leanings while NorCal, i.e. the San Francisco bay area, supposedly has a left leaning vibe.
I found this to be true to a small degree on my 4-day visit there; indeed in berkeley there are a bunch of hippies in trees protesting and that sort of thing, and more bookshops, thrift shops, etc. I think that SoCal is more materialistic than NOrCal is non-materialistic...i.e. the emphasis on appearance on appearance and money in the south here is bad, and its average in the bay... nothing beats the midwest for down-to earth...thrift store t-shirts still cost 15 bucks in berkeley...and theres a 7-storey shopping mall in san francisco.
My casual grubby style is indeed more en vogue in NorCal than SoCal ( and moreso in SoCal than the East coast, of course) . So here I rock it by the UC sign- this is at UC-berkeley, the first university of california...now there are 10 or so UC's...a beanie or north face coat are not necessary at UC- san diego
but prices are high in San Francisco and there is a very commerical air about the place, perhaps like any big city, but I though it to be perhaps a little worse even, especially given my expectations about a green/ left leaning establishment...nonetheless, its a nice, cold place. San diego may have less personality but it also has more sun and less wind, esp in december!
Saheel is training for a Marathon so we went on a run across the golden gate bridge ( see background) and back.
Interesting Graffiti in Los Angeles. Real grit. I love america's 3 biggest cities (LA, NY, Chicago) more than San francisco, but all of them have their charms. San francisco is probably the prettiest but since I saw if from a context of already living in California, some of the luster wasn't as impressive...
Went on a hike in muir woods to see some coastal redwoods, the tallest creatures on the planet.
  
These are pics from golden gate park, san francisco's even bigger version of Central Park. These in particular are the japanese tea garden. yes my pose is offensive in that pic. much lake many of my posts, sorry...
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