zoomloco's Xanga

Someone wondering whats going on in Chechnya?

Mon, 20 Oct 2008 02:28:35 GMT

Someone wondering whats going on in Chechnya?
Something going down now that the bombs have letted up?
"Something" is Russian so that if you're Chechen
Putin's making sure that you have learned your lessons...

There has possibly never been a situation more like 1984 than how Groznyy and the rest of Chechnya are currently being rebuilt.

Just a very mild example of the the historical whitewashings currently going down in the north Caucasus:

This monument in the photo above was just taken down by the Russian/ Kadyrov authorities. It stood outside of Groznyy, Chechnya's capital, with the inscription:
"We won't fall apart, we won't cry, and we won't forget."

The stones from which the hand is rising are Chechen gravestones that were dug up by Stalin and used as cornerstones for farm sheds and other buildings. They were-after Kruschev condemned Stalin's actions and allowed Chechens to return from their exile- eventually gathered back by Chechen nationalists to form this monument. Well now its gone, due to a high-level Russian governmental visit. So goes a piece of national identity.

In broader news, the entire nation of Chechnya is still being force-fed a bizarre version of history where Chechen rebels/ separatists are the ones who bombed Grozny. Of course history is rewritten by the winners but the scale of this historical re-write are, I believe, unprecedented in my own lifetime. Several alternative news sites are covering this sly Orwellian takeover; sources abound.

Contrary to the inscription on the former monument, Chechnya-Ingushetia was indeed partitioned, indeed fell down, and is now in danger of forgetting...

War is peace.
Freedom is slavery.
Russia is the liberator.

Ridin' Dirty

Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:49:34 GMT

Driving and Nature- A shot from shotgun and a backcountry shot: One of several beautiful lakes on the approach to Gannett peak in Wyoming. This area smelled like Maine.

Two weeks ago I rendezvoused with my Kyrgyz roomate and climbing buddy John at his home in Billings Montana and adventure ensued.
Dropping two guys into to the Central Rockies and adding a $300 1989 Ford Taurus Wagon equals a recipe for no showers in two weeks. Two glorious weeks, when the only activities are hiking and climbing, with all (relative) cleanliness being due to swims in rivers, streams, lakes and hot springs.

Soaking in hot springs to get clean; fixing the car so we can continue riding dirty. Those were our 2 main non-climbing activities.

Our itinerary included 3 peaks (detailed climbing descriptions below):
1) Gannett peak in the Wind River Range, the highest in Wyoming and the most remote and difficult state high point besides Denali in Alaska.
2) The Grand Teton, probably the most celebrated and famous peak in the USA, which translates to "the large breast" (thanks Frenchies). So famous that an entire national park is named after it.
3) Mount Borah, the obscure but rugged state high point of Idaho.

(l)Gannett Peak from the Upper Gannett glacier-i.e. halfway through summit day. (r) the tetons- Grand is on the right

The other component of the trip was culture assessments.
Montana was brand new to me; Idaho and Wyoming I haven't been in 25 years (when I couldn't remember anything). So this part of the USA was prime candidate for my latest cultural analysis.

In brief: this part of America is a very free area. Montana has no sales tax and no car inspection (which was critical given then condition of John's beater we drove). In Wyoming we saw shotgun blasts through government land signs. Idaho is just plain quirky.With lots of "sportsmen"- i.e. hunters and fishers.

Montana is known as "big sky country" and indeed the valleys are so big, the sky so blue (the state so big to drive across) that its road trip heaven. lots of plains, lots of forests. Wyoming is a very legitimate cowboy state, more cowboy -real cowboy- than texas.And also has three of the finest ranges in the state (add the Bighorns, whose Cloud peak, along with Loco and Crazy peaks in MT and Granite peak in MT, I have to climb on my next trip out here. Plus sawtooth trad climbing. there's too much out here...). Jckson Hole is a Yippie town, but with friendly people that makes it a great sports base for the Tetons. Dubois (formetrly known as "Never Sweat because of the lazy inhabitanty before the post office refused to deliver mail to that town name) is a gateway to the Wind Rivers and a quaint cowboy village.

Idaho is a state I often made fun of. It has tremendous natural resources but fails to use them in a conservation-minded way- its waterways, timber, etc. It has the tremendous and gorgeous snake river and Hell's canyon (deeper than the grand canyon). Its Shoshone falls (which, like Nevada-the worst western state, is "properly" pronounced incorrectly) are similar to and bigger to Niagara falls, but they rejected a National Park in order to dam it for electricity. Still a sight, their consolation prize was craters of the moon park, the largest US lava field outside of Hawaii and caused by the same hotspot that creates Yellowstone geysers. Still it remains, with Delaware, the only states without their own national parks. But with many national forests and national recreation areas, truly an adventurous destination.
Idaho is scenic indeed, but the state is all potatoes wheat or mountains. Farmable due to an underwater reservoir, v. interesting. And their obsession with potatoes is bizarre. Strange signs and quirks are found at every turn, but the people are really very kind and inordinately friendly. It's very similar to pennsylvania in many ways. But a lot less densely populated. The total population for Idaho Montana and Wyoming is under 3 million; many towns have populations under 300- the lowest we saw was 26.

Idaho's sawtooth range is very rugged, and the home of Stanley (pop 100), often the coldest town in the lower 48. We went for the salmon festival.

Corn on the cob and salmon fill hungry hungry climbers

Montana is beautiful therefore has many passes that give the car trouble

Craters of the Moon National Monument in Idaho

Shoshone Falls Non-National Anything in Idaho. Note power plant and dam.

Rather disappointed by the relative ruggedness of the Sierra Nevada, and hearing that the central Rockies (Montana, Wyoming, Idaho) was all the more rugged than the broad Scree piles of Colorado (known as the "14ers" colloquially) or the dry but beautiful basins of New Mexico, I conceived this climbing road trip. In fact, the central Rockies are on par with the quality of the alps or even smaller areas of the great ranges, giving the lower 48 some credibility in terms of mountaineering. So here's a detailed description for the outdoors-minded reader:

WIND and RIVERS
The wind river range is all that is noble about the mountains in the USA. This range is completely isolated (no motorized vehicles in a 50x100 mile area and only 3 trails leading in) and perfect for backcountry fishing hiking or mountaineering. With 25 miles minimum hike-in through rugged mountains to reach the peak, Gannett Peak has the most glaciated area and most continuously alpine area in the lower 48, with ridge upon ridge of sizeable glaciers. Gannett is the highest peak at 13,800', but oodles of peaks top 13000.' Gannett was not thought to be the high point until recently because it is so deeply nestled in the range and not very visible. The Wind Rivers are a big chunk of the Continental divide through Wyoming.

We attacked Gannett by the seldomly climbed north face in order to see how the difficulty of Wyoming's finest stacks up to other routes worldwide. A very wet winter left Gannett Glacier in excellent condition, even in late season mid-august. The route would probably go as a French PD, or Russian 3A under the current conditions. Hard enough to be respectable, easy enough to be lots of fun! Lost of small open crevasses, two easily avoidable bergschrunds and some steep slopes that we protected with ten ice screws and several pitches of poorly protected alpine rock were all of the difficulties. Also a long summit day- our high camp was just over 10,000' meaning almost 4000' of glacial climbing was on tap for the summit day.

After summitting we then traversed the mountain, descending the standard route, when we saw a BEAR (!) run across the entire (giant) Gooseneck glacier and ascend the 50 degree snow-packed coliour on the normal route! We were still on the ridge, but the bear moved speedily with a mission on its mind. Considering the coliour that the bear virtually ran up is the technical crux of the normal route, and the steepest technical snow section on ANY (including Hood Rainier and even Denali ) state high point's standard route, much respect goes to bears. Heer are some gannett pics- Teton and Borah trip reports below:

(l) Honeymoon lake, about halfway into the peak.; (r) John on one of our few breaks on this 18 mile day.

Gannett's north face: There she is- most all of the route is visible in this photo.

Skirting a bergschrund on the ascent. Right after this we roped up.

Self portrait, belaying john from the summit ridge.

Gannet peak summit- the continental divide. Descent by normal route.

(l) Bear's footprint at gooseneck pass. (r) On the 2-day hikeout, anticipating driving dirty...the Gannett peak summit visible 7 miles up the valley...still 18 more miles to backpack to the car. This whole 50 mile, 10000' gain endeavor was about a 90 hour very pleasurable ordeal.

John and the car after our first climb and before our first problem- we only had to get it jumped this time.

I LOVE BIG TETONS
The tetons, like the Wind River R ange are also in wyoming but like the fraternal twin, are the exact opposite of the Wind river range. Instead of a thick, ridge after ridge knot of ice reipping peaks, they rise up immediately from the plain without any foothills, 7000' to the summit of the gran teton. Instead of a thick know, they are a single, beautiful delicate ridge. We camped at the saddle between the Grand and Middle teton, at 11,800'. A very windy and sleepless night preceeded an extremely windy summit day (the coldest of the season according to a guide of a group on the summit with us).
To be honest, for all of its hype, the Grand teton is a rather tame mountain with relatively overrated and low quality rock, but its a beautiful peak in a high-visibility area. So everyone wants to climb the peak (easiest route a very overrated 5.4). Thus the number of guided groups accounts for at least 2/3 of the mountain's traffic.

I would one day like to climb the north face or another more technical route on the Grand to see how those stack up.

Our high camp at 11'800'

Summit. Note the guided group cowering at my feet and the wind blowing.

Self-portrait of the dirtbag as a young man.

Teton range at dusk from valley; Grand Teton (twisted) from saddle.

MOUNT BORAH- VERY NICE!
And the 3rd climb:
After Alaska, Wyoming, Montana (Granite) Washington (Rainier) this then comes somewhere on the list of difficulty. Possibly behind Oregon's hood and California's Whitney.
Idaho is very mountainous, and 11,000' here is about as rugged as 14000' in Colorado. So size isnt everything in mountains. Latitude, weather and steepness are really much more relevant. Borah is in the very dry but steep Lost River range, and rises to 12,600.'
On the day we climbed, a cancer climb was going on with 5 film crews and a helicopter. Everyone climbed with ropes harnessed and helmets, making this relatively straightforward class 3 climb look a lot more serious than it really was. 5000' of elevation gain in 3.5 miles to summit means no switchbacks- no need to conserve- its the Idaho way. I appreciated this extreme physical challenge of the steepness, but with trails like that , future Idahoans will not be able...Went to the summit with 2 women who were professional nordic skiiers and who has recently climbed Aconcagua (highest point outside of Asia) and were comparing the Borah route to the summit pyramid of Aconcagua.

Why does the Borah summit look like Tibet? (ans: for the film shots). And why do these guys need a rope and helmets (answer: so they can be sure to climb slow enough for a 12 hour filming day)?

I have plenty more pics but I've hit my "monthly upload limit"
Xanga isn't free, unlike the Central Rockies. And very much unlike dirtbagging it in a taurus trunk in the real american west.

Midnight Train to Ossetia

Thu, 14 Aug 2008 02:52:24 GMT

Check out this photo and read especially the last 2 lines-From the DDR (GDR) museum in Berlin- an exhibit explanation that is applicable much more universally than just in the GDR. It can be very well applied to modern Russia (trying to do something different in world affairs), to capitalist individualist America (where we spend to show our originality) and in some way to your and my lives as well, probably. More photos of Germany and Italy for the visually inclined later. But first, as usual, some commentary.

In the last few days I've gotten a lot of questions/ calls/ emails about the crisis/ war in Georgia. People are calling and emailing me with the question: what is the fuss about? What's going on?

The answer is pretty implied in why have chosen to ask me: people probably assume I have no exorbitant knowledge about the Caucasus or Georgia or Ossetia, but they are aware that I know something about Russia. And that is why Georgia is in the news- because of Russia's involvement. The issue here is about Russia.

The bottom line: Russia is a bully, but it takes a village to raise a bully, so we cannot wash our hands before we look into how this situation (i.e Russia's defiant affronts to the West) was created. First, a bit on the Caucasus.

The entire Caucasus has been (pretty much throughout history) a smorgasbord of cultures which translates into low grade warfare constantly throughout the region through time. Ossetia and Georgia have been at low scale (and higher) war for the last 20years- plus a heavy period of fighting during Georgia's 3 years of 20th century interbellum independence 80 years ago. Knowing this conflict Stalin (who was from Georgia- actually Gori, in Georgia proper- where Russia recently bombed) divided up Georgia's ethnic minorities into autonomous areas- keeping ethnic issues relatively at bay. Georgia is not quite as independent as the Baltics, who were subsumed by Russia, like Georgia 200 years ago under Catherine the Terrible, but its long proud history as a nation is longer lived than Russia, or Even Lithuania, or, even older, Ukraine. Georgia became a Christian nation (in reality- a set of principalities) before white people even set foot in modern day Russia.

Yet regarding world affairs, Georgia amounts to a middleman for Caspian oil and occasional kudos for being a relatively democratic, western leaning agent in a region of autocracy. But now, when Russia is involved, the press listens. My basic answer to the question people ask is as I have just stated- no one cares about Ossetia; Georgia doesn't for the most part matter, but Russia very much matters to very many people. Insofar as actions in the Caucasus concern Russia, people are listening.

It's hard to really understand Russia if one has not been to eastern Europe- I don't even understand it 8 years into my exploration. But a few important facts that allude to a collective mentality and history leading up to the Attacks on sovereign Georgian soil.

1) Russia has had a very bloody and tumultuous history, and its people are very stoic. Still they prefer strength and stability to freedoms, very much unlike the beliefs an idealized western opinion holds.

2) Russia is a very proud country that was humiliated throughout the 1990's by the fall of their system and by her currency collapse and poverty.

3) Russia has always been expansionist and has been very hurt, economically and more important, egoistically, by losses of it 14 republics after the breakup of the USSR.

4) Russia is reemerging from it poverty because of high oil and gas prices (its economic mainstays) and wants to flex its muscles.

5) Russia is insecure in its acceptance as an equal by Western states . More on this later.

6) Most importantly- The USA (and the west as a whole) did not ease Russia out of the Soviet times. We embarrassed them- watched them fall in defeat at the collapse of the Eastern bloc in 1989-91, laughing as they floundered and grinning as their former allies (from East Germany to the Baltics to Ukraine) came running to the West for EU membership, NATO membership, western government and values, etc.

I firmly believe (all in hindsight) that this is a repetition of History. When Germany was ravaged in WWI, it was given tall orders to make reparations and all sorts of payments, which resulted in a proud people being embarrassed and economically depressed. When that yielded disaster in the Rise of Hitller, the US got it right the second time and bankrolled Germany's governmental and economic restoration to western standards following WWII. Germany became a staunch ally.

Russia's story is very parallel. While at the time I cheered Reagan's efforts to destroy the evil empire (actually to be very accurate I cheered for the Baltimore Orioles and teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles at the time it was happening- but later cheered those efforts in retrospect) including the fall of the Wall, it happened too forcefully and quickly. While both sides were too polarized and myopic, it is obvious in retrospect that the Soviet Union, vastly more inefficient than its western rival, would eventually fall (That one scholar predicted the that the 80's would bring the USSR's fall as
early as 1979 is amazing to me- I doubt a single government official in either country was foresighted enough to even conceive that after the Soviet Union's outwardly prosperous "booming 70's". )

Putin has called the fall of the USSR greatest geopolitical disaster of the 20th century. Compared to the huge numbers of atrocities occurring elsewhere in the 20th century, I have to politely disagree, but I will grant that he has a point- the depression that the Soviet Union went into in the 1990's was 10 times the Great Depression in the USA. The self-esteem that fueled one of the world's proudest yet most insecure nations was dashed. America mocked Russia (including the game show spoof "Who wants to eat a meal" on comedy television). An now Russia, the bully who was mocked for the true weakling that she was, comes back to reassert that anger on a small annoying pesky neighbor.
Showing that deep down, she has pride enough and he should be able to hold her head high. Whether the nation can, I am not sure. But certainly, I believe the people should be able.

While Russia has incredible governmental failings, managing such a diverse empire spread across hostile terrain from the Nordics to Japan is not an easy task. Hundreds of nationalities, millions of people: not as easy as, say, Sweden to govern.

Russia's major shortcoming is her lack of self-esteem (yes I am applying human attributes to a nation here). It's cultural influences and accomplishments in music (Pushkin, Dostoevsky, Tolstoy) music (Shostakovitch) etc are the highest end of the high end of European refinement. Its athletic accomplishments (those without steroids) are
legendary, including probably (next to the Poles) the best mountaineers in the world. St Petersburg is arguable Europe's loveliest city. Yet Russia's little neighbors (cf especially the Baltics,Poland and Hungary), in
jealousy, deny Russia's place as a European culture.

Russia's collective racist thread cannot accept its true identity as ethnically part Asian (even a "white" Russian is 25% Asian genetically- much like the Finns, who are not as concerned about proclaiming this "embarrassing" point) and so the rejection by its neighbors as a historically European state makes Russia alone and isolated. The west has not done enough to assure Russia, and to Ensure them a place in the European History book. As my friend Jeff (US Foreign Service in Russia) said, if Russia believed that the West believed that Russia had an admirable past/culture/identity, we would not find ourselves in this divide.

Putin is making Russia strong (albeit in the short term, without diversifying the economy, which will lead Russia to crash again, especially if commodity process fall due to another global conflict like Iran or yes, even Russia...). So since Russia hasn't been brought into the western fold.

It was easy for all of the Satellite countries, and even the former Soviet Republics to sluff off blame for a dysfunctional system on Russia. Russia has no one to blame, and no one has reached out to them, so it has to ally with Iran and other countries shunned by the west.

So about Ossetia? No, I don't especially care either...it's another footnote in Russian history.

In Soviet Russia, Environment Pollutes YOU!

Mir.

ps here's some pics of my Germany and Italy trip last month. If you want to read about these places, go a few posts back.

pps, Lithuania just beat Russia in Olympic basketball. Again.

GERMANY

Berlin's Branderburg Gate (from the East German side)

Sunsets and skies are nice in Germany

The Prussian civilization's center, i.e. Berlin's Dom (cathedral), where all Prussian kings are resting. Hopefully resting, as they lived their european foreign affairs, i.e. unpeacefully.

The Wall. The most important piece of concrete of the 20th century. And I guess, ever.

What I found of my hostel in Dresden

I like this kind of stuff.

This one's from Berlin

Dresden is a very quaint and regal city...

With a small but interesting underbelly.

Martin Luther hailed from right outside of Dresden, in the former East Germany

Dresden was the "Florence on the Elbe" but was decimated by the Allies in WWII, but here's the Frauenkircke rebuilt and very pretty.

German graffiti is the best in the world. Hands down, sorry new york.

Central berlin sunset.

water and sun in downtown berlin.

Did I mention I like sunsets and German (north european) skies?

More of the same, but I like this stuff- churches and sunsets.

make your own caption.

GDR relics outside Checkpoint Charlie

Did I mention I love Berlin's gritty urban exuberance?

A car from East Germany (the Deutschland Democratic Republic)

Berlin- aka the best city in europe- is still being rebuilt

Gabriel blows the horn, reaching across Berlin's devide

The holocaust memorial. The columns are up to 20 feet tall (it's built on a hill) . Very chilling at night.

now VATICAN:

Vatican seal

Inside St Peters

Pieta, the real thing, in St Peters- Sorry not rotated

ITALY:

Our Italain Crew in Jana Bandana's apartment, eating a delicious home cooked italian meal.

The biggest festival in Italy- the Palio horse race in Siena

Live shot!

Santa Croce church in Florence has the tombs of Machivelli, Michelangelo, Galileo, Dante, etc...

The Horne house in Florence

The dome of the Duomo (cathedral) from the bellfry in Florence.

Cinque Terre- "5 towns", on the Med

Uno of the Cinque

Perhaps not the best photo ever taken on a very hot hike along the coast.

Sun penetrating the dome in the Pantheon in Rome

In the Colleseum...today

This Roman likes ice cream. Gelatto, probably.

Trevi fountain. For posterity. Don't go here if you like tranquility.

I am trying the Italian hairstyle outside the catacobmbs, while pointing to the Appian Way

Outside the Colleseum...tonight

The Roman forum- i.e. the story of European democracy.

More Roman ruins

The Moon and America

Sun, 27 Jul 2008 19:44:40 GMT

Nature appreciation is difficult now, in times (and cities) when even being aware of nature is hard. This unfortunate reality applies , including (!) when we venture into a national park or forest. This past week, two friends, Matt and Dallas, and I drove up to the Sierra Nevada and climbed Mt Whitney in Inyo National Forest and Sequoia National Park. Being the highest peak in the lower 48 makes Whitney a very popular peak, and the most climbed in the USA. The "overloving" of national parks contributes somewhat to the non-pristine feeling we often find there-endless waits, cars, pollution... But the park service, seeking to provide a "wilderness" feel, chooses to regulate use in various parks- and in the case of Mt Whitney, to limit the number of permits of people who can even go near the mountain.

Logical in theory, the permit system does probably very successfully preserve the fragile wilderness there. But
by limiting the number of people per day (60 overnight and 100 day permits in the "Whitney zone") this amounts to
80% of people do the route as one of the day passes (overnight passes for 2, 3, 4 days etc, mean that you take 4 "summit" spots but only summit once).

Approaching Whitney at Sunrise

So far so good, okay, but the standard (hiking) route- even after dynamiting out the adjacent ridge to make the peak mule-train accessible, is 22 miles round-trip, topping out at 14497' after more than 6000' of gained elevation. Our more difficulty technically east face approach and climb (the"Mountaineer's route", first route climbed solo by John Muir) was 17 miles and the same 6000'+ of elevation gain on even steeper rock. The problem is that most normal people attempting the peak, even those with training and experience, will find it a superhuman effort to finish the peak in one day. More time is needed for a fuller experience.

The day climb in-and-out environment does not lead to wilderness appreciation. The whitney zone (and inded the whole Eastern Sierra)is very dry, but speckled with waterfalls and gorgeous pines and iceberg lakes on its lower flanks. The fact that it's a mere 100 miles from Death Valley and abuts the Mohave desert means the Eastern Sierra is much like western China or Tajikistan: very dry and relatively warm, even on the big mountains. This leads to an amazing opportunity for people to experience high mountains in a relatively benign climate.

Whitney's fine flanks from 12000' (iceberg lake). Our route followed the snow coliour on the right, then on to a bit of steeper section to the summit.The steep East Face of Mt. Whitney, show here, is famous for several classic traditional rock routes, at least one of which I have my eye on already.

However, in the lust for the summit, crowds rush up in the wee hours of the night (3 or 4 am are the recommended start times) and back down in delirium, most without enough energy or spirit to properly appreciate, learn from or understand the mountain environment. A 22 mile hike with Whitney's altitude and elevation gain is ideally a 2-3 day trip for most But with the day climb permit system, there is no time for a dip in the lake, a lunch in the shade, or some time goofing around on the rocks- what most people would do if given an open time frame. While we "limit" the number of people per day, they still log 22 miles each of wear and tear on the trail- and each one logs a summit. In observing his insane summit lust, I was very much reminded of the famous quote by Anatoli's Boukreev, possibly the greatest mountaineer ever:

"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion"

Matt and Dallas at 14,400', steep, but almost to the summit!

But the permit system as turned Whitney into a stadium, complete with "victory" T-shirts bragging about the difficulty of the "XTREEM" 1-day hike, the huge elevation gain, the highest in the 48, etc. These were, in fact, all of the t-shirts for sale- one couldn't find one that wasn't obnoxious! This braggodicio is very much linked to the loss of natural awareness in other facets of life. In the past weeks (the time in nature because of the acclimatization and preparation trips with my buddies) has allowed me to ponder on this.

Summit shot- standing above everything between Alaska and Mexico city

View from Whitney's Summit showing part of our approach route

Group summit pose

The descent, by a different route, in the light, led to better views.

I have always wondered why is the calendar lunar the basis for our modern one?The moon is still the root of the Jewish Muslim and Catholic calendars (only the Muslims have stayed fully Lunar) as well as Religion is old, or at least has very old roots, and in my modern lifestyle, I couldn't understand the emphasis on the moon. I've done a lot of camping and night hiking, but it never came through to me as strongly as the past week. The moon was considered a source of light in antiquity because i is very bright! Night hiking under even a 1st or 3rd quarter moon is very bright is you are out from under tree cover. Even under tree cover, a full moon is usually sufficient.

While I've been camping mucho mucho before, SoCal is the most cloudless and brightest place I've done a lot of outdoors activities, so it's the place I'm most likely to see a bright night moon. Stars of course are more apparent in a greater variety of places. but still too overlooked in modern world. To really be out under a dark sky allows understanding of the importance the ancients placed on the moon and stars.

The moon is an especially important element- a real source of light- so beautiful and bright- so menacing sometimes, like a orange bad moon on the rise, like from our summit camp on San Gorgonio, that presaged a feirce storm in the morning.
The sun is very important- and I do believe the type of Circadian rhythms, as well as sleeping with the sun. In the woods, or mountains, despite less sleep you will feel more rested because you go to bed with the sun and wake up with it later...most of us never see the 5am sunrise, and its really, not to be melodramatic, an unavoidable collective social tragedy. Instead we accustomize ourselves with caffeine etc to bizarre schedules and rhythms.

This Sequoia National Park marmot is accustomed to mountain rhythms. Which may be why he is friendly.

On to more about the trip: So the Eastern Sierra Nevadas have taken an important but little-talked about part the American history of injustice and oppression: a Japanese internment camp. No, we are not talking a summer camp for Japanese interns here.

I believe it is of paramount importance to learn about oppressive regimes, and I always try to educate myself on-site whenever I have the opportunity. I have a good amount (some might say an obsessive amount) of exposure to Soviet and Russian oppression and a substantial exposure to Jewish issues as well. American oppression is of course, also at the top of my agenda, and taking a look at Manzanar, one of 10 internment camps was an important part of my Eastern Sierra trip.

The history, in brief, is that after Pearl Harbor, and war declared on Germany, Italy and Japan, aliens from those nations were placed under curfew. However, this applied to ALL those of Japanese descent, regardless of US citizenship. Quickly, this turned into sending Japanese into camps to "protect" them from angry mobs wanting to venge pearl harbor. Or course this was done months after, with barbed wire around and military guards pointing rifles wth bayonets in at the camps.

The evacuations were generally 48 hours to 2 weeks, and no property could be brought so materially, it was just like German evacuations.So how does Manzanar compare to Soviet exile and work camps and German concentration camps? Mush closer tan I would have thought. The key difference was the physical treatment: no physical abuses were generally reported a the American camps- there was enough food, etc. They were treated (even the US citizens) as prisoners of war. Note that Canadia went through similar forced evacuations- meaning xenophobia was the norm across the European and north american continents in the 1940's.

Treatment inside camps was not nearly as brutal, and in essence it was like living in a summer camp- for 5 years, with the loss of your American self-identity. This identity confusion was probably the most damaging, as internees were asked if they would give up their allegiance to the Japanese Emperor, and separately whether they would serve in the ammed forces. A very sticky issue at Shinto, a main Japanese religion, sees the Emperor as a diety. Also sticky because most America born Japanese have no allegiance to the Emperor to begin with; foreign born Japanese could not become citizens, so forswearing their allegiance would give up their only citizenship, leaving them people without a country...

Monument at Manzanar cemetary with the famous Mt Williamson, California's second highest peak and #6 in the contiguous states, in the background. Of course the prisoners could not go out of the barbed wire to ascend the summit and instead were stuck with the oppressive desert heat and wind below.

The exhibits showed many newspaper articles from the time and the racism was pervasive. The Museum itself drew many (obvious) parallels to post-9/11 and the PATRIOT act- no so much condemning it as raising the possibility that it is not appropriate to limit freedoms- the usual quotes by Franklin and Madison, among others, accompanied the exhibits. while the message was perhaps overstated and the presentation melodramatic, I think the level of engagement and parallels drawn were very appropriate for the typical visitor.

The exhibits included (not concluded with- making an important, though subtle, distinction) a videotape of Ronald Reagan's formal apology to the surviving Interns. There were also reparations paid, though it is important to note, as Reagan did, and as many Japanese expressed, that the formal recognition of the wrong

An interesting point Reagan made was that we should not judge those who made errors in the intense wartime atmosphere, but he emphasized that it does not mean that the actions were not wrong. Indeed, expelling and ghettoizing a people is always wrong, even in a time of war and needs to be recognized that even great leaders - ie Roosevelt, make mistakes.

Manzanar- a very serious chapter in US history at my favorite price (free!)- strongly recommended for anyone in the Bishop/ Yosemite/ Whitney area (the Owens Valley).

While Whitney wasn't a particularly tough climb compared to most other mountaineering peaks I've climbed, mostly in Kyrgyzstan, my challenge was in training 2 friends who were new to high altitude -having not ever been above 10,000' or done any climbing. They needed enough acclimatization and experience to climb the mountaineer's route- a route more difficult than 3 or 4 others- on America's most popular peak.
For those who care about acclimatizing someone (or themselves) to the highest point in the contiguous USA when they haven't done much altitude at all, here's the regime I came up with and took my mates on... the training: six increasingly longer and higher hikes, then the big day. This training was carried out over 4 months.

1) Anza-borrego desert wilderness, 4 miles on rough trails (2000')
2) Garnet Peak, Pacific crest trail, 4 miles 5480'
3) Suicide rock, San Jacinto mountains, 7 miles, 6900'
4) Mt Baldy (Mt San Antonio), high point, Los Angeles county and San Gabriel range, 11 miles 10,064'
5) San Jacinto Peak, high point, San Jacinto mountains and Riverside county, 13 miles 10,834'
6) San Gorgonio, high point, San Bernardino mountains and San Bernardino county, 16 miles, 11,499' (with overnight on summit for acclimitization)
7) Mt Whitney, (Highpoint, lower 48, California, Inyo and Tulare counties)-17 miles (by class 3 mountaineer's route and trail descent) 14,497'

I do apologize if this list sounds like trophizing- and I realize peaks like whitney everest and denali might forever be relegated to "Trophy" peaks, but it doesnt change my disappointment in this realization.
I agree strongly with sir edmund hillary's (first to summit Everest in '53) assessment- than can also be applied to any "trophy" peak: "It's all bullshit on Everest these days"

My Dad joined us on San Gorgonio (11,500')- this is on the ascent, peak in background

Dallas, Matt, and My dad, approaching camp at sunset on San G

Before the Storm, camping on the summit of San G

This regime encompasses 5 California county highpoints- and real peaks, not roads or hills! Includes 3 of the 7 most prominent peaks in the 48- San G, San J and Whitney!!! (prominence is a hard measure to wrap your head around but it basically means how impressive the mountain compared to its surroundings- how much its the king of its own domain)

One more word about the american rural west (not the suburban developed desert, note): you generally only have 2 radio stations, one is gospel, one is country. When there's only 1, it's country (meaning old time, or country rock generally, not too much new country here). There is, hands down, more good music on these 1 or 2 stations than on the whole array of options in DC, or Houston (KTRU included), or San Diego stations. And more good quality music than in your ipod or in your CD wallet. This is something to think on.

In the Colosseum, we call em as we see 'em

Tue, 15 Jul 2008 15:06:19 GMT

“It's all the much more sporting when there's families in the pit, and the madness of the crowd is in an epileptic fit”- waits lyrics comparing the Colosseum to the political quagmire in Washington.

The Colosseum was, no doubt, my favorite site from Ancient Rome. It continues to be a worldwide image of bloodlust and Barbary within an ostensibly civilized people. Not to beat the uber-overused Rome/ USA parallel, but we might say the same today of, say, mixed martial arts...or boxing...even football... Having Christians fight lions might be one step or two more barbaric, but its not more than a couple more. Still, our sports are entertaining, and put me into this sport-induced arousal as well.

It might seem that I've been giving Berlin unreasonably large attention compared to Rome, where I was last week (and where I'll stop through again in a couple days). However, I think this makes sense, given the relatively more time I've spent here in Berlin, coupled with my greater knowledge of German (and Eastern Bloc) history and my prior visit to Germany which allow me to look beyond more surface tourist observations a bit more than my first time Rome trip. It's very hard to analyze when you're taken aback by a new system, language, and culture. Plus, I genuinely believe Berlin is very important and underrepresented in the popular psyche. Additionally I'm solo here in Germany, always a better recipe for reflection.

But still, it didn't take much to realize Rome is also an incredible city. In fact Rome (specifically the Vatican) is one of my “life 5”, of which Israel, The trans-Siberian Railway, and Rome are now touched upon. Japan and Pamplona remain.

The tourist overload only really applied to the Vatican (which I covered 2 posts ago), which was undiminished even so; and easy enough to avoid the worst by going early. A bigger problem, as previously mentioned, was the weather, made worse by no shorts (must be below the knee to go into religious sites.)

Italy is reputed as a very lazy and relaxed place- I see this more reflected in dysfunction as I posted 2x ago. But I thought the historical issues outweighed it and makes Italy a great destination nonwithstanding. One of my classmates (she is Italian) really criticized Italy, saying they are so endowed with historical wealth is the reason it is a tourist destination, not due to its good preservation or infrastructure or service. Though I think the painting seems to get a good deal of attention, probably due to Jana;s influence my classmate said she thought other western countries would take more care in preservation of such masterpieces.

Italy could be more pleasant destination- but its possible that the reason for some unpleasantness is the bourgeois other tourists.(Ameliorator and I heard the British-accented quote “Who hasn't been to Tuscany?” here.

I've also heart the critique that Italy (like Greece) rests on its historical laurels, not concerned about achievement because they are confident about their history but they sit and refuse to progress. Regardless, they have an incredible history, so I'll stop know critiquing a local mindset that I wasn't able to understand in my short stint there. And the tourists do come, the money is made, and the standard of living is high, despite huge inefficiencies. Despite my hassles, Italy is mostly western in its travel ease scale.

The Pantheon (again 2 posts ago) and the Roman Forum (were parliamentary democracy was implemented-in some sense) were other excellent historic sites- the Pantheon two orders of magnitude more well preserved, being converted to a church and used as such. The Colosseum is crumbling but still an incredible site, which has been sanctified for so many (Christian) deaths. Didn't see any aqueducts or the Circus maximus, but I don't know anything about ancient Rome anyway, so into our third ruins I began to not really know or care about differences.

The Gelatto (homemade Italian ice cream) was a favorite of the girls; I preferred our pasta and pizza meals. I had more time and money in Italy, Food is probably where I would first spend it. The waiters did not like my style (nor I theirs) but it was good enough. I don't think its particularly welcoming, which does make a difference, but I also took so little effort to adapt to Italian culture that to really have a genuine culture experience I would need to try to integrate more than a week of power travel. Italian culture doesn't fit in well with this approach.

Two excursions were lot of fun for us. The Palio in Siena (Florence's ancient rival town, whose power was wiped out by the black death) was an event packed 2 minutes. Each of the surrounding towns races a horse around the Siena town square in an a bareback-all holds barred chaos. Several horses always finish without riders (2 in our case). Medieval dressed pageantry of horses and minstrels as well as thousands of flag waving fans make an action packed environment.

This was the same day as the pope, so getting in was a bit of a solace. Tickets overlooking the square generally cost around 200 Euro (300 bucks!) But there is one opportunity for free entrance, which we stumbled upon, and got to stand in the center of the square amidst the rabble cheering. We even snuck our backpacks (forbidden) past the Po-Po! The left luggage place at the station ( in Italy not done by lockers, but, as in Russia and the South, by actual people) closes in the early evening so we wouldn't be able to pick it up. So we had to take bags with.

It is common opinion that the event, which is 700 years old at last, is very corrupt and the winner is bought beforehand. Whether this is true I do not know, but the number of fans from the winning town outnumbered the rest and paraded, singing and beating drums into the church across town to celebrate! Losing fans were disappointed, and everyone had high energy. The event is held in honor of the Virgin Mary, and so has some religious (albeit seemingly only outwardly) components. 3 days of parties were supposed to ensue, but we bailed to Florence to meet Jana and tour the Ufizzi and Academia.

Another excursion was to Cinque Terre, or 5 towns, on the Mediterranean coast, built into cliffs in improbable locations. Several hikes go throughout, including one running through each one. We did the trail through 'Cuarto tierre's, which was roughly 10 kilometers- stopping in each of 4 towns along the way. There were plenty of people swimming in the Med as well as soaking up the small town vibe, more violated in some towns than others by the hordes of visitors arriving on frequent trains. But getting out on the trail allowed us to get a nature feeling and feel the cool sea breeze despite the scorching Italian sun.

One more note about Berlin- it is well famous for being the only progressive city in Europe- where you can have facial piercings and hold a corporate job simultaneously. While not as wild as the fringier areas of London, fashion in some neighborhood s more uniformly alternative with oodles of bizarre head shave patterns dreadlocks hair colors tattoos and piercings. Its very common to see a dreadlocked woman pushing a baby carriage with a mohawked father. Alternative fashion need not mean alternative lifestyle. East Berlin has the alternative rep in particular, and indeed there is Ramones museum (which I could not find, even with lonely planets directions, surprising?) and cheap eats all through a neighborhood known as Kreuzberg. Very vibrant, and making me look relatively clean and well-kempt!

The social scene in Berlin is largely clubbing; I went to 2 clubs, a youngish club under a train station that emphasized American music – pop rock hip hop etc, and was very similar to an American club. With much more smoking outside...The second I went to was a trendy place on a 10th floor glass walled discotheque with electronic music- a place more in line with to be more my previous conception of the city. Still, American influence is omnipresent, with remixes of Enter Sandman and Smells Like Teen Spirit (albeit very remixed) into dance tunes, even at this uber-German atmosphere. The club environments were less social than American ones (little interaction between groups- you hang out with who you come with). But in general, its very much the same.

The conference is coming to a close tomorrow and so I'll fly back to Rome to grab one more good meal...then back to the U.S.S.A, done with Eastern Europe, for the time being.

...then we take Berlin

Mon, 14 Jul 2008 15:57:18 GMT

Berlin is a truly complex city in a very important country. Nonwithstanding, I will give some slipshod analysis of some of the world's most historical events, and will cram 3, yes 3, of them into one post. I expect to take some flack for not giving these issues enough attention. Believe me, do I give them attention (here and always), but I just type slow, and have very little time with the Summer school here, as well as actually trying to experience the city. The very little of my free time remaining is left as analysis, meaning to type this I have to dig into my sleeping and eating times! So here we go...

Rome, London, Paris, it seems to me these cities are more well known historically because Berlin has only been a city very recently, when in the 1800's it was formed from an amalgomation of a dozen or so villages. Now its broad streets and leafy parks make it comfortable and relaxed, while its intense history as the center of the German empire republic and reich makes it probably the pivotal city of the 20th Century.

My most recent stop, though my #1 reason for looking forward to berlin, was Cold war history. It's embodied at Checkpoint Charlie, which was the only crossing point between west and east berlin for diplomats, etc...no crossing for East berliners at all..
Thousands of East Berliners snuck across, and hundreds were killed. Their methods are all documented- hiding in luggage, hot air balloons, tunnels, a homemade submarine, etc. All sorts of protests, subversive plans, and defiant acts are documented here at the Checkpoint charlie museum, which is actually called the Wall Museum. It is an incredibly emotional museum, with individual stories of people working around the world to eliminate the Wall, and all walls, physical and otherwise. Jerusalem was referenced as a parallel to Berlin by a german author in the early 80's. No reference to Nicosia that I caught. The wall museum was made as the events unfolded, so its a true historical (west german) perspective...

Here also, were stories about freedom in other parts of the world- the Ukrainian Genocide(including a film about it), uprisings in other parts of the Eastern Bloc and so on. Perhaps because I'm so thoroughly anti-soviet, but I really did not think the pro-western sentiment was over the top. For me, its hard to find sympathy for a system that fences in its people, then shoots its own citizens when they try to leave. But another observer might think this viewpoint is not sympathetic enough to the socialist cause. Pro Regan and Gorbechov messages, as well strong anti Stalinist sentiments (to the point of translating his office as Dictator) ,and anti- Checka (Dzerzhinsky) and Stasi (the East German KGB, which was seemingly more brutal than the other Soviet Bloc states, save the USSR itself) attitudes certainly did not paint the losers' side with any sympathy, but the fact is the museum was created in real time in West Berlin during the construction of the wall, and continued growing and expanding until the wall fell adds the explanation of the bias in presentation. Even so, this message was the same (if not even milder) as the sentiments expressed in the newer, flashier DDR museum on (former) east german soil.

Onto another important historical point, the Germans are, of course, guilty of perpetrating one of the most terrible crimes against humanity ever, and probably the world's most calculated and evil genocide. And they are very sorry for it. It is illegal to say anything anti-semitic; Jews are now very much embraced in every way possible. There's a new synagogue and lots of positive public policy.

There are Jerusalemer Street, Yitzak Rabin street, even Ben Gurion Street here in Berlin (in Dresden, in East Germany proper, there were all kinds of Warsaw pact capital named streets, which remain to this day; overt socialist names have however been changed...still its funny to walk down Prager street or Budapester street).
The street example was just one specific example how Germans seem genuinely sorry and to really appreciate Jews. They try- probably overly- hard to get over their prejudices and collective feelings of guilt. To this end, there is an incredible holocaust memorial, in addition to the Jewish museum, occupying an entire city block, on prime real estate only a block from Parliament. Experiencing this monument, which is an angular set of huge rectangular stones, some 15 feet high, conjures a huge graveyard. Spooky and thought -provoking, walking between these immense columns late at night really was chilling.

The Jewish Museum was a similarly intense place. Supposedly the best of its kind in the world, and indeed it is superbly professionally done. The dramatic modern architecture is angular and harsh, evoking unease throughout. However, while Germans do feel guilty, I think that having the museum evoke imagery of a prison while wire-studded cross-shaped windows looked out was a bit unnecessary, especially given Hitlers neo-pagan ideology; the Third Reich was far from a christian regime. Aside from this one notable detail, the tone the museum set was also excessive- while the holocaust was no doubt a pivotal event in German, Jewish, and World history, the museum of Jewish history need not emphasis this event throughout. Jews are not confined to angular cells behind barbed wire for their entire history, as the museum more or less implies. There are arts of the museum where this emptiness is appropriate- the holocaust tower which is an angular cold empty room, was well done. But I felt that emphasizing discrimination and hate against Jews undermined the very real contributions that Jews have made, to Germany and beyond. While there was an emphasis on German, and to a larger extent Ashkanazi jews (a term which which did NOT include poland, lithuania, russia and eastern europe, according to the museum including france italy and germany only- I'm not entirely sure about that one)

Its Garden of exile, symbolizing he Jews scattering across the world (referencing specifically post WWII exile from europe) was terrifically done, with cobbled paths on slightly uneven incline through off-angled columns that made the walk through the garden entirely disorienting, stumbling and tripping as the loss of perspective. It was really a feeling one might induce from alcohol; though I did not appreciate the misleading exhibit description that the columns were vertical (from afar they clearly are not); trying to orient them as vertical creates the disorienting effect. Misleading, yes but these elements and the effect were very perfect.

But while it is impossible to catalogue the history of the Jewish people, I was expecting more ancient Jewish History, including Judiasm's contributions to religions and philisophic thought. Instead, it was more german centric, which has its ups in empasizing local famous jews but also its limitations in that in trying to be the worlds authority, its not very educational about the history and roots of judaism. Perhaps more Jewish traditions (they were but briefly mentioned, and I didnt catch any of the holidays mentioned) and religion and interpretations.
Instead the museum began speaking about Constantine and how his reforms to help Jews really ended up working against them. Perhaps true, but the condemning language really set the tone, and led into what would be essentially a chronicle of mistreatment of Jews. I am actually sympathetic to this point, I just dont think it's the only point to be made.
Then the museum immediately moved on to how Jews were expelled from various towns during the crusades, banned from public offices, blamed for the death of Christ, the plague, the loss of Germany in WWI, etc. While all of these things are true, to one extent or another, the sheer volume of self-victimization was tantamount to crying wolf. The museum constantly listed excerpts of anti-Jewish statements made by various people for the last 2000 years. It is not surprising what we can find a set of museum walls' worth of these, but is it really a constructive or representative activity? Esecially when many of the quotes were not from political leaders or church leaders, but usually random excerpts from opinion columns, etc.
The museum also contained a section on prejudices, against jews and others.
However most all of the advertisements were a hundred years old, and very similar to the Smithsonian's exhibit (though admittedly much more technologically advanced, as is all of Germany). While germany is very cutting edge in general, this was one area where they definitely were NOT challenging any status quo. Not many modern ads were shown or challenged.

I also did not appreciate the "are you prejudiced" inteactive game, which was similar to a psych lab experiment, but done in such a way that its very hard to NOT get the result prejudiced, even if you had no prior prejudice at all. I think the point here again is propoganda, saying everyone should reduce prejudce- which I might agree, however the manner in which this is relayed is misleading and it feels dishonest. The latest psychological studies I know about this area (which are similar to the test the museum conducted) actually state that virtually everyone (including dark-skinned people) are biased toward lighter skin, though of course they used valid methods...I mean that people, all of them are biased against darker skinner people.

I also didnt like the interactive questions (like internet polls) throughout. Questions like "Do you think any of your friends harbor prejudices against Jews" and "Should Turkey be allowed to Join the EU" and "Should anyone born on German soil be a german citizen" (apparently they're not?)

Despite the terrible tings happening to Jews, which certainly in some ways parallels terrors of the Soviet Curtain, I did not feel the same type of emotional response as I did in the Berlin Wall museum (at Checkpoint charlie). I'm not sure that Soviet dictatorship and the Holocaust are directly comparable; both are too horrible for mere description, but the presentation in the Jewish museum seemed a bit too singular in emphasis for me.

For reference as to how Germany portrays Jews in General and the Holocaust in specific, I wish I had been able to go to Dachau (outside Munich) but it was closed the day I tried to visit it 2 years ago. Aushiwitz, in Poland, was in my opinion superbly presented (mostly in that there was no presentation- things were left as is, with minimum displays or words). The nauseating nature of he place spoke for itself.

I did not find a similar level of emotional arousal here at the Jewish museum, and in fact I felt it was endless playing the victim whereas Jewish life and contributions are much more than 1-dimentional. I of course acknowledge the victimization of Jews throughout the ages; I don't particularly think that constantly bringing tis up, or in blaming Christianity, is useful to do in such a wide swath.

A similar example is the excellent holocaust museum in DC. I think, with the exception of the disjoint and unsettling celebration of the proclamation of israel at the end, the DC holocaust museum evokes emotion and presents information in a way that educates and motivates, not in a way that makes the Jewish people an innocent roadkill on the pathway of history. However, as I mentioned, Germans are extremely sorry for their role in the holocaust and seem to overcompensate. This sentiment, I believe, is counter-constructive, and leads to the European wide anti-Israel stance that has been gradually adopted, as well as the arrogant, isolationist, and self pitying role that Israel has taken on in its global role. There is clearly a lot of history and pain and rejection to be worked out, but sometimes moving forward is as positive a step as remembering every wrong of history. Also see post slavery Black issues for this; not an easy issue. I advocate that one must constantly be aware of how much you are visctimized but never make it your calling card- for your own sake. Being a victim is timid; rising above is. For another simplistic analysis of this issue, see Barack Obama's race talk back in march.

I did see the Memorial to the Israeli athletes at the olympic park in Munich the last time I was there; this was creative, austere, appropriate and on the right scale. The jewish museum certainly had brilliant elements, but its fundamental refrain, even if true each time it was mentioned, did not help me to connect with the Jewish struggle as much as such a museum had the opportunity to.

OK< so that issue is so important I dont want to stop thinking or rambling about it but I promised to mention third issue, that of Germany being the center of Europe, which it pretty much has been for all of the last 2 centuries. Rome was challenged only by Germanic tribes, who wroke (yes wroke) havoc upon all of Europe and expanded germanic-dom and prussianess to the very border of the Lithuanian-polish state. The Tribes eventually became the kingdom of Prussia, who were not as bad as Russia, but were probably Lithuania's #2 enemy of the State historically. Actually, for most of history, Lithuania dominated Russia, and only came to constant stalemates with Prussia, so Prussia was the worthy opponent; only in the last 200 years did Russia do anything to get back at Lithuania. But now Prussia is dead so we won't give them Public enemy #1 status.

Anyway, there's various sayings: that Bavaria is not Germany (its catholic, inefficient, lot of accent, very different culture, didnt join Germany until late etc), saying that East Germany isnt like Germany(brainwashed/ changed culture form the iron curtain), that Berlin is not (too multicultural- sometimes called little istanbul for the umber of turks here) etc. But let us say this: Brandenburg was the seat of the Prussian King. Pretty much always a bad bad man in this humble opinion. Though a very important and powerful one. Brandenburg gate, whose statue was stolen by naopolean then stolen back by prussia, represents german history in downtown berlin because it represents historical power and european dominance. Germany is power- economic, population, industrial, political, power.
I do not embrace the german mindset in most ways (except power travel efficiency), but I have to respect it. They dominate, they are proud, and they are resiliant across all times. Ok, I hope thats enough blather. On with the city count next time- I'll jot a bit more about Italy and the Berlin party scene.

Italia und Deutschland

Sat, 12 Jul 2008 12:41:42 GMT

So my first year of PHD economics is over and I'm back to some real fun.
The past two weeks I've been in Europe, though two very different parts of Europe: Italy and Germany. The states Lazio and Tuscany (Rome and Florence) in Italy, then East Germany (Dresden and Berlin).Its possible I could have picked a more extreme dichotomy, say, Sicily and Frankfurt, but this one worked well enough for a few insights.

The reasons for my travel varied just as widely.
In Italy ameliorator and I set of on a whirlwind 5 day “tourist Italy” trip, albeit with the excellent caveat that we'd be visiting and traveling with Jana, who lives in Florence doing an art restoration internship.
As for Germany I am here for a 10-day summer school in economics and decision making.

I'll list some obvious differences and begin with an indicator: Street crossing: In Italy, it's all chaos, all the time- pedestrians crossing anywhere and cars speeding around. Still though it actually didn't seem dangerous, not like, say Istanbul, where cars speed up when they see a pedestrian crossing. Cars were respectful, laid back.
Germany was as I remembered it when I first traveled there in 06, and was shocked that people actually listen to the “walk/ don't walk” signals. People will wait patiently on the corner, even at 1 a.m. with no cars to be seen, for the cross sign to appear. This strict adherence is less in the very progressive Berlin (It was more notable in Dresden and my former trip in Bavaria) but nonetheless is remarkable.

Religion is another point of difference. East Germany, was the home of Martin Luther, who preached not far from Dresden. Italy of course is the seat of Catholicism, at Vatican City, where I went 3 of my 5 days in Italy- every one of the Days I was in Rome.

We also saw a portion of the Vatican Museums' 7 miles of chambers; I declare this to be the greatest museum in the world. I've never been into the Hermitage or the Louvre, but having experienced the Smithsonian, British museum, Ufizzi, Pergamon, Met, MOMA, Field Museum, and more. The Vatican museum has them all beat in sheer scale, including the Sistine Chapel which was a highlight of my trip and I know next to nothing about Renaissance art. Plus tons of other artwork, including modern art, historical maps, and so on. On top of that, the Vatican has Michelangelo's Pieta sitting in a dusty (though not forgotten) corner of St Peter's.

We went to Sunday mass in St Peters, which is huge but not overly ornate given what it could be. Rather the overall color scheme is a subdued set of earth tones that I though very beautiful. The bizarre thing about this mass is that it seemed less formal than some others, including the collection going on through the Eucharist. Despite having the perfectly designed kneelers,mass in St Peters was not an overly sublime experience. Still the church itself was nice offering Mass constantly (and simultaneously) in several of it chapels, and offering confession on the weekdays. It was very much a functioning church, not a museum as several other Churches we went to in Italy

The Pantheon was actually quite shocking- people eating ice cream in the church, yammering and photoflashing, running around, with total chaos of the money changers at the entry. Despite this, the pantheon is an amazing building, A perfect half dome upon a cylinder and a huge gaping circle in the ceiling allowing a huge thick light beam to illuminate the ancient building. The building is in perfect shape 2000 years after it was build, originally as a temple to all the Gods. Physically perfect, environmentally poor...

The Pantheon is just one of Rome's many Basilicas and we saw at least 4- a couple being virtually completely untouristed despite being downtown, huge and gorgeous. A Basilica in Rome is about as rare as a casino in Vegas: you don't need to go in every single one to get the idea. (A Basilica is a magnificent church without the seat of a bishop- Washington has one: the Basilica of the Shrine of the Immaculate Conception; whereas Washington's Cathedral is the Smaller (though still quite large) St Matthew's downtown)

The art differential between Italy and Germany is also large and this was something more than I unanticipated. I don't think I had much exposure to German art the week I was in Bavaria- it was some architecture, a few nice churches and castles, and mountains. But here in Berlin in particular, art is everywhere. And while yes, there is the stereotypical industrial geometric German art, I am really surprised at first the diversity of art here, and even more so, at the art appreciation that the average Berliner has. The modern and progressive art here even found its way into the Museum of southwest again antiquity, aside (in the same museum as) an exhibit on Islamic art and Turkey's great Altar from Pergamon. In the same room, in an almost seamless exhibit, we saw multimedia television screens sounds, bells, and artworks. This particular exhibit, expounding upon Nebuchanezzar of Babylon, was quite thorough, mixing ancient texts, paintings, as well as modern pieces paralleling Nebachunezzar to Saddam Hussein.
And yes, pornography (both museums I have been to included extensive nudity which would most definitely be pornography in America- yet these museums are completely mainstream museums, one even a hands-on museum geared at accessibility, hence kids! The german attitudes toward "progressive" ideas like pornography or feminism or homosexuality is almost elitist. I found it bizarre that there were political statements and pieces overtly advocating messages in a history museum. While such pieces might be in a modern art museum in the US, the Smithsonian's American history museum woudl not mix overt politcs in the same way.
On a previous topic, I find that german society is actually not nearly s overtly sexual as Italian public portrayal is in ads, etc. While very comfortable with ideas of sexuality and public nudity, the German public seems much more sexually conservative in behavior.

On other Michelangelo notes, Jana obtained Ameliorator and I special tickets for Florence's Academia, which is essentially a museum with David and a half dozen unfinished Michaelangelo sculptures as its focus. The David is a truly compelling sculpture, and despite it being probably the most famous sculpture in the world, I was still overwhelmed and the seer size, realism and beauty.My favorite element is his confident stance from afar while up close the fear is so clearly in his eyes. Though there are plenty of criticisms, such as too real, or that his hands are grossly too large, or, as the usually sophomoric lonely planet was titilated about, the size of his member, I think the statue is amazing and perfect, and gazing at it for an hour was a highlight of the trip.

I learned about all of these artworks in Gecan/ Gullickson humanities in 10th grade and was surprised how much I was able to recall when seeing all of these great buildings and artworks. The Ufizzi, Florence's primary art museum, was also chocked full of masterpieces by Caravaggio, Leonardo, Rafael, and others. Though I don't know renaissance paining so well, there were was several I recognized, such as the Birth of Venus, and even more I could actually appreciate. It's a very good museum that makes non-modern art paintings entrancing to me.

On to societal function. The way society runs might be an extension of the crosswalk light example above, but the stereotypes definitely hold true here. Italy's trains are late constantly, things are quite confusing, no receipts (this became a problem when I lost a train ticket- whereas in Germany we always get a receipt) very confusing train schedules etc. Germany again lived up to its reputation of information, efficiency and modernization.

Italy was a frustrating friction point of societal function: just functional enough to make you try to follow the rules, with prices to reflect it, but dysfunctional enough that efficiency was constantly violated and nothing was consistent. Still, the dysfuntionality was not high enough to take advantage of- so it was developed enough to make traveling western style necessary, but not functional enough to make power travel work!

On such example is my first experience here. After my scheduled landing, I had 100 minutes to make it from the Airport to the Vatican for an Audience with the pope. Which, using power travel techniques and navigating the essentially functional transportation system, proved more than possible, albeit difficult, as it would be in any country on such a tight schedule. Ameliorator has already obtained the tickets, so all was perfect until when we were 20 people from the front, the Vatican Guard clowns (swiss guard dressed in even more ridiculous outfits than Buckingham palace) stopped letting people into the hall! There were too many tickets given; half the crowd was turned away! We were tantalizingly close. But when certain groups made exceptions and were still allowed to enter, we tried several time to plead and work our way in, efforts that would work in a normal developing country (whereas our would work in a normal developed country). But Italy is right on the cusp, and not clearly well entrenched as developed- in fact its developing but with western price rates!

Well the result was many of the people with tickets being turned away. Then, next, me tallying a second country on my lifelong list of places I have been kicked out of. That is right folks, I was kicked out of the Vatican (not by a Vatican clown Guard, but rather a Rome/Italian POLICEman was was in a decidedly bad mood and probably didn't like the looks of me, like most POPO don't. It was not obvious if he kicked out just me or Liora also, but he refused to let us go back into St Peters Square and instead walked us, gestapo style, to the exit. IE, the border. And he closed the gate behind us. So of course the Vatican has an open border in st peters square (the Vatican walls that surround most of the rest of the country) and its quite easy to walk in (they don't even check you when the metal detectors go off) so we were able to walk back in but the bizarre dysfunction of the situation was a good reflection on the Italian non-system. We had tickets yet were kicked out of the Country. And were able to walk right back in, through metal detectors that went off, but I was not checked after, not once in the 3 or 4 times I set them off here! Infrastructure yes, purpose, no!

Another example Ameliorator raised was that at the internet cafe, we were required to register (by Italian law) using an official ID. But Liora could use an expired ID, and mine didn't have a birthdate- but they allowed me to just tell it to them...and then no problems, I could use the internet. I guess they didn't find me as an enemy of the state. Much like the developing world, dysfunctional pointless, ineffective hurdles- not unlike recent airline regulations, which have now (liquid carry-on limit) spread here to germany as well!

Political background is also shocking one might think that as I spent my time in the Northern (more functional, ostensibly) part of Italy, and former Eastern Bloc (the backward part of) Germany. Actually this trip to the former German Democratic Republic (East Germany) means 2008 is the 8th Straight year I've been in the Eastern Bloc. Every year of the new Millennium and counting!
I haven't seen the wall or Brandenburg gate, but I did visit the DDR (Deutschland Democratic Republic, not Dance Dance Revolution) museum, which has the standard super-critical slant toward the Soviet bloc history, complete with condemnations of Women's day and East German autos and an exhibit of photos and videos of people yearning to express their freedom and individuality by nude sunbathing. Not unlike the Museum of Communism on Prague, this museum adequately captures the region's anti-Soviet sentiments.

Now that I've been to (the former) East Germany, I'm missing only Hungary to complete my Warsaw pact travel list (The Warsaw pact is the Soviet Union's correlary to NATO, though the soviets violently put down protests in Czechoslovakia and Hungary, thus attacking members of their own alliance). I also have never been to Slovakia, but in the Bloc days Czechoslovakia was one country so my Czech family trip in 2003 suffices in this nuanced game-a way to exploit the political simplicity of Europe of the Cold War Days. As for the USSR, despite having never been to Moldova and the Caucasus, I can still tally USSR via any of the other 11 former soviet Republics. Likewise, Romania Bulgaria where I went with Eric (and Logan in Romania) and Poland, where I've been several times, round out the Warsaw pact (after Albania pulled out quite early). So while I'd been to Germany, I'd never been on East German soil until this week...

A few other interesting things: I stopped by Dresden (East Germanys second biggest city) for a day, a town that was known as the Florence on the Elbe. But The town was obsessed with how it was before the WWII bombing, and seemed trapped in nostalgia. Must like a good portion of the eastern bloc, looking to better days of yore.
While its really nothing compared to the real Florence (nor was it before, given the perfect reconstructions and looking at the numerous photos), the architecture here was quite impressive, most of it rebuilt already, though construction of the more pedestrian areas of the city are still going on. I climbed the main cathedral's bell tower, as it my normal city exploration technique and meandered the streets across the river to the unbombed residential side outside the center where life is less of a museum. Altogether a pleasant city, though while it was well-touristed, the number of tourists between 18 and 45 here included approximately myself only. In essence, it was close to a museum city, mixed somewhat with modern business trappings overlaying old Soviet Bloc infrastructure. I thought it was interesting that a skate park has sprung up around a Soviet monument with the standard excellent German Graffiti all around. Graffiti is really invented in america, perfected in Germany.

Another note is that I arrived quote late after a flight change and infrequent trains from the airport, leaving me unable to find the hostel- as it was not on the lonely planet map. Thus had a night out under a tree by the tracks. Quite pleasant despite threatening skies. The overcast and rainy weather has continued, with frequently changing skies to allow some sunshine, throughout the week here in East Germany, making it very similar to Baltic State weather! This was a welcome contrast to the constantly sweaty Italian summer weather!

A few more fun things: the Palio horse race in Siena, Italy's biggest festival, Cinque Terre- a coastal hike through some Ligurian (Mediterranean) sea villages and cliffs, the Colliseum and other ancient Roman ruins, as well as the analysis of the social scene and historical sites in Berlin. Plus a few notes on the Economics here- upcoming in a future post! Too much for one installment!

California knows how to study

Sat, 29 Mar 2008 21:29:40 GMT

Spring break here at the university of California, so finally able to do some non-textbook related exercises: internet and outdoors!
So in a span of 9 days of spring break I've done 5 hikes (and surfed the internet 500 hours!)! All local and nothing particularly big- though at 2000m, some of these San diego county peaks are as high as the highest Appalachians.

As it's the end of spring, the snow will be melting in the really big mountains soon- so will soon be able to head up to the 10,000' + range...with California highest (and the lower 48's biggest) peak Whitney hopefully in the cards- if I can get a summer permit...then out to montana!

Mt Cuyamaca, 6512' (just 50' shy of 2000m). On the apalachian trail, this would be the second highest peak.
Yes I also got a lot skinnier this quarter...which allowed me to particularly appreciate the really chilling wind blowing on this peak, exactly like an alpine peak, really refreshing.

Iron Mountain, 2700.' Nice and sunny.

Flowers on trail at Torrey pines park (so many wildflowers this season!)

This pic is my university, seen across the sea from la jolla cove

Also this quarter I had many visitors!
first doina! ( unfortunately I couldnt get the good photos off facebook)
We went to the zoo (Dan diego has the world's finest) and the beach

Then my family! Here is Liz at my department...

And at the zoo:

Then Ameliorator!

That's theodore geisel (aka dr deuss) at the geisel library on my campus

Can Diego city's highest point, Cowles mountain (1592')
With Ameliorator, Pat, and Melissa

Also, had some other recreation- my first boxing match. It was a world championship bout though because here are different boxing organizations, the defending champ was only ranked 3rd in the world. I have no idea what the challenger was ranked. Probably 8thish.
regardless, it turned out I only had a general admission ticket, so I kept getting kicked out of wherever I sat
This led to my moving farther and farther up so by the time the main event rolled around, I had 2nd row ringside seats! The title fight was the champ (Paul Williams) who was defeated by unanimous decision by Puerto Rican Carlos Quintana. I wore sunglasses because the lights were bright. Apparently my friends watching on HBO thought this looked funny.

Here is my group, followed by a few ringside fight pcs.

This is Lennox Lewis, commentating

Perhaps gratuitous, still I though I should convey the full experience:

Some other cali pics, these strange trees I often post pics of (which must have either inspired or been inspired by Dr Seuss, who lived right down the road) are at La Jolla Cove

The best pic I have of this sunset as my batteries died whan the good stuff was happening...

Seals like to breed in la jolla.

Finally, though I was not there, my neice and nephew had their 6th month birthday!
First photo Helena R , James L, reversed in 2nd

The edge of the world for western civilization

Mon, 07 Jan 2008 22:57:37 GMT

I have been living in San Diego for around 4 months now, and have begun hammering at my PHD. In fact, I am now a resident (citizen) of the REPUBLIC OF CALIFORNIA, a state governed by yes, the terminator. In fact, as the post title suggests, I find the vibe exuded in any chili peppers album, particularly Californication, to be eerily like the life I observe around me. Yes it's that good, and that bad.

California is MUCH different than the east coast, in many ways more different than some countries (for example, canada and the US). Here's a picture of my dorms (I live on Campus) at the University of California, San Diego. Note that the leaves are still changing on this tree and it has half its leaves left. - I just took this picture today- in January. Autumn is still here and spring is around the corner. Also note the volleyball net in front of my front door...very nice.

sorry this pic isn't tilted right...

A nice view of the valley below; San diego has quite a nice set of valleys.
The dorm has a nice view of the valley below; San diego has quite a nice set of valleys. Here's sunset @ the localest social beach.

La Jolla Cove- down the hill from my university.

Most notably, everything is car-centered. this was also the case in texas and in other western states. Despite a lot of rhetoric about environmentalism (including the states progressive environmental emissions trading, for example) many californians still seem to nave little knowledge of pollution reduction or recycling.

Also notably is a vague hippie air, which manifests itself in euclyptis trees, copies of Weed World at the newsstand, a generally very relaxed vibe, etc. However, I fail to see many vegetarian food options or environmentally friendly practices; and conversely I see an abundance of consumerism that at least parallels if not exceeds the east coast.

Most notably is the weather. Yes I still wear sandals half the time now in January; some people still wear shorts; I certainly still run in a t-shirt and when the sun comes out, which is basically every day, winter sunburn can be a problem...it happened to me just 3 days ago...
The sea breeze make it indeed paradisiac, its winter and smells like hawaii. The water is cold, but you can see the ocean from my department, and so anytime work gets to be too much a walk outside into fresh air and sunshine is a great retreat.
Being a desert on the edge of the ocean means the mediterranean climate meats a sort of tropical vibe with cool nights...its pretty ideal.

Here are a few pics of my university, and city. This spaceship like thing on my campus is geisel library. theodore Geisel is Dr Seuss. There are seuss statues (including a cat in the hat), reading rooms, etc as seuss and is wife were big donors to the university and lived just down the road...they decided not to give to Dartmouth, his alma mater, as dartmouth told him to stop doing so much cartooning- which is why he took the pen name seuss to disguise himself...and barely graduated to then create green eggs and ham.

Mexico is also just a 20 minute drive away so its easy to stop on in...at least until passports are required to come back, which is supposed to be implemented soon. I have been twice from San Diego, which along with 2 trips from Rice and my trip this summer with Liz to the Caribbean Yucatan and Chiapas, means I've seen a fair amount of Mexico. My spanish is barely passable but gets the job done...

the last chance you have to go back...

pic: sunset from Rosarito, mexico

I also had a chance to visit san francisco and berkeley (as well as LA once more), which have a slightly less vapid atmosphere than SoCal, (SoCal is LA and its trillion suburbs and San diego county), is noted for its plastic surgeries and Right political leanings while NorCal, i.e. the San Francisco bay area, supposedly has a left leaning vibe.
I found this to be true to a small degree on my 4-day visit there; indeed in berkeley there are a bunch of hippies in trees protesting and that sort of thing, and more bookshops, thrift shops, etc. I think that SoCal is more materialistic than NOrCal is non-materialistic...i.e. the emphasis on appearance on appearance and money in the south here is bad, and its average in the bay... nothing beats the midwest for down-to earth...thrift store t-shirts still cost 15 bucks in berkeley...and theres a 7-storey shopping mall in san francisco.

My casual grubby style is indeed more en vogue in NorCal than SoCal ( and moreso in SoCal than the East coast, of course) . So here I rock it by the UC sign- this is at UC-berkeley, the first university of california...now there are 10 or so UC's...a beanie or north face coat are not necessary at UC- san diego

but prices are high in San Francisco and there is a very commerical air about the place, perhaps like any big city, but I though it to be perhaps a little worse even, especially given my expectations about a green/ left leaning establishment...nonetheless, its a nice, cold place. San diego may have less personality but it also has more sun and less wind, esp in december!

Saheel is training for a Marathon so we went on a run across the golden gate bridge ( see background) and back.

Interesting Graffiti in Los Angeles. Real grit. I love america's 3 biggest cities (LA, NY, Chicago) more than San francisco, but all of them have their charms. San francisco is probably the prettiest but since I saw if from a context of already living in California, some of the luster wasn't as impressive...

Went on a hike in muir woods to see some coastal redwoods, the tallest creatures on the planet.

These are pics from golden gate park, san francisco's even bigger version of Central Park. These in particular are the japanese tea garden. yes my pose is offensive in that pic. much lake many of my posts, sorry...